Peering Off the Pier - Puerto Angel, Mexico

I continued to sweat while the sun began to set over the coast of southern Mexico. Although nighttime was near, the sweltering heat refused to leave with the disappearing daylight. I was fine nonetheless. The cool Pacific waves washing my toes were quite refreshing. And the breathtaking beach ahead took my mind off the high temps as I wandered into the Oaxaca evening.

Slowly stepping across Playa Principal, I was captivated by Puerto Angel‘s bay. Not only did I ogle the pacifying palms that skirted the golden sands, but also the bright white fishing boats, which flaunted striking blue interiors, neatly parked along the beach. I was also speechless due to the silence of the sound. Aside from the faint laughter of children playing in the water, the only thing I could hear were the strong gusts of wind sweeping across my face. At times, it felt like I was the only person on the planet as I explored the tranquil cove.

I kept ambling along the oceanfront and eventually reached the long pier that jutted into the bay ‘s eastern end. Unimpressed by the weathered dock, I turned around and noticed something that immediately caused me to forget about the ugly concrete at my feet. Just above the tops of the palm trees stood a tiny, Easter-colored church. The chapel gave off a fun and inviting vibe. Its funky appearance and excellent view of the Bahia de Puerto Angel tempted me to peek at its pews. However, I glanced at the rapidly darkening skies and knew I was left with no choice but to postpone my visit. A trek to the holy house would have to be tomorrow‘s adventure.

Turning away from the church, I focused on the end of the pier. I patiently made my way to its far edge, stopping several times to avoid stray dogs, swooping gulls, kids chasing each other, and to exchange pleasantries with those who were also out for an evening stroll. Finally, I arrived at my destination as a last few fishermen carefully motored around the dock, pushed their crafts onto shore, and carried the day ‘s catch into town.

It was dusk, and I stared in awe, gawking at the lonely boats resting atop the waves while the sun fell behind the cove‘s cliffs. The final rays warmly lit the calming waters and the silence was stronger than ever. The beauty and stillness of nightfall left me with an overwhelmingly peaceful feeling. I couldn‘t remember the last time I had witnessed something so relaxing.

With the sun now gone until dawn, I decided that I should go, too. I began retracing my steps back to the hotel and realized I had no idea what time it was. Curious, I glanced at my wrists and saw nothing - I had left my watch in my room.

But I really didn’t care about the time in the end. I was in no hurry. If anything, I wished I could have turned back the clock just a bit to peer off that pier a little longer.

11 Volcanoes in the Americas That You Can Climb

Maybe it’s because they seem primordial, or because you did really well in rocks for jocks, or actually know a thing or two about geology. Or perhaps just because it’s there, and well, so are you. But for some (perhaps magnetic) reason, where there is an accessible volcano, there are travelers (and sometimes locals) bathing in its hot-springs, scaling its slopes and marveling at its lava flows.

As you make your way around this still-forming planet, consider the following fairly accessible volcanoes for part of your next been-there-done-that party. It goes without saying that climbing or getting close to an active volcano carries risks, but most travelers find that those risks pale in comparison to lava, fumaroles, lava tubes, tumbling rocks and the kshgrrrrburbleburble that volcanoes whisper and shout to you when you’re nearby.

Below you’ll find a list of accessible volcanoes for your hiking and viewing pleasure in the Americas. Sadly, Kilauea in Hawai’i is politically but not geographically in the Americas, so we’ll have to save that for a special ring of fire edition of the volcano walking for the mildly intrepid. For now you’ll have to make do with these beauties.

Mount St. Helens – Washington, USA

Since May of 1980, when Washington state’s Mt. St. Helens blew her cone and covered Seattle with ash that my friends tell me looked like snow, she has gained respect from locals and travelers alike. On a clear day, she is visible in the distance, from Seattle and Portland, Oregon as well, a flattened giant that blew her top.

Since 1987, the southern slopes of Mt. St. Helens have been open to climbers who wish to climb close to (but not into) the crater. Monitor Ridge is a popular trail that starts at Climber’s Bivouac, and takes between 7 and 12 hours to climb. Climbers can gain views of the crater, blast area and other nearby volcanic peaks, but those wishing to climb above 4,800 feet (the rim is at 8,365) must seek a permit.

More details are on the Mt. St. Helens website.

Mt. Redoubt – Alaska, USA

Mt. Redoubt is an active stratovolcano that erupted violently in March 2009, and is probably best seen from nearby, as opposed to up close. Until recently, climbing Redoubt required some technical expertise, fixed rope climbing and a peakside scramble to the top, but there’s no telling what things will be like after the eruption finally stops, so do your research before packing your gear.

For now, views of Redoubt volcano (from the Russian Sopka Redutskaya meaning “fortified place”) are best taken from afar. The 9,000-foot volcano is less than 200 miles from Anchorage.

You can also get a (less sulphuric) peek from home at the Alaska Volcano Observatory webpage.

Tequila Volcano - Mexico

In Mexico, there are a number of volcanoes that can be easily accessed, including Tequila Volcano, where visitors can actually drive to the edge of the crater and peer inside to see the forests that have sprung up inside. Not surprisingly, this volcano is located a stone’s throw from the town of Tequila, better known for another kind of liquid fire.

Rock climbers will want to summit “the plug”, a lava column that formed inside the mouth of the volcano and was then thrust upward by geologic pressure. Its sheer walls are not for the uninitiated, nor the acrophobic.

Other climbable volcanoes in Mexico

Also near the state of Jalisco is the Nevado de Colima volcano (inactive), which can be climbed, and Volcan de Fuego, which is active, and therefore best seen from down below. High-altitude treks would take climbers to the peaks of Iztaccihuatl and Orizaba (the highest peak in Mexico at 18,404 feet), but these are not for the inexperienced, the guideless or those who are short of time as they require a few days.

Volcan Arenal - Costa Rica

This starring player in Costa Rica’s ecotourism route is far too active and explosive to be climbed safely. It is often socked in with clouds, but nighttime visits to the nearby hot springs bring vantage points to see the small lava explosions and red-hot rocks tumble forth from the cone.

The area has grown in recent years with Costa Rica’s runaway tourism, and you may find more souls with whom to say “oooh” and “aaaah” than you were expecting.

Several hotels and outfitters in the town of Arenal, and nearby Fortuna, run tours, and the Arenal Observatory Lodge offers volcano views from right inside.

Horseback riding and bicycling are popular in this area, with all eyes trained towards the volcano, day and night.

Pacaya - Guatemala

Guatemala’s Pacaya volcano’s ash-lined slopes have been calling to travelers since the gringo trail first appeared. Volcano-lovers generally stay in the colonial town of Antigua, where tours can easily be arranged, and which is a pleasant, oft-visited spot on its own.

The hike up Pacaya starts with a steep climb through a pine forest, up through a strenuous section up slippery ash-lined slopes (two steps forward, one step back). Views from the top extend down to the pacific lowlands and all the way to El Salvador. A guide is recommended as the volcano’s activity is unpredictable, and the route may not always be clear. Also, historically there have also been muggings on this volcano, so going with a tour is a safer option.

For those aspiring vulcanologists for whom one Guatemalan volcano is not enough, you might consider taking a five-day tour with an outfitter that leads hikers up Pacaya, Sta. Maria, Acatenango and Fuego with camping on the slopes of the volcanoes.

Ometepe - Nicaragua

Nicaragua is home to several active volcanoes, including Masaya, which can be toured at night, and which has lava tubes which visitors can explore. A headlamp is a nice touch, as it keeps your hands free, but a flashlight is fine as well. Nicaragua’s Ometepe Island in Lake Nicaragua attracts volcano lovers as well for the two volcanoes that comprise the island (Ometepe means two mountains), Maderas and Concepci?n, neither of which tops 6,000 feet.

Concepci?n is the world’s highest lake island and is considered a fairly perfect example of a cone volcano. It remains active. Maderas is terraced in places where farmers take advantage of fertile growing conditions on her slopes.

For those visitors for whom these three volcanoes in Nicaragua have not quelled their need to see the world’s geology lab might consider also visiting Cosig?ina, in the northwest corner of the country. This volcano’s violent eruption in 1859 spewed ash and rock, and contributed to the formation of some of the islands in the Gulf of Fonseca. It’s now considered dormant, and is only 900 meters high, and covered in dense vegetation.

Boiling Lake - Dominica

Of sixteen active volcanoes in the Carribean, Dominica is home to nine, and since no significant eruptions have taken place since Columbus’ time, the rainforests are lush and mostly undisturbed. Visitors to this eco-destination can visit Morne Trois Pitons National Park, a World Heritage site since 1997, which is named for the remains of what was once an enormous volcano.

The park contains several volcanic features, including the hot springs at the Valley of Desolation and a 13 km, 3-4 hour hike up to the world’s second-largest boiling lake, a bubbling, burping greyish-blue 200-foot-wide lake which geologists believe to be a flooded fumarole. Locals consider it to be a right of passage, but except for the guides, you won’t find many repeat visitors. It’s messy business, especially since in addition to being highly volcanic, Dominica is also the rainiest of the Carribean islands. “Stinking hole” is another feature here, a lava tube in the middle of the forest that leaks sulphuric fumes.

For those who prefer their waters a little clearer, Dominica also offers an unusual underwater view of volcanic activity in the form of Champagne, an underground vent system that releases ticklish sulphuric bubbles that visitors can snorkel through. This is accessible by tour, or by kakaying out to the access point.

Soufri?re Hills - Montserrat

The formerly dormant Soufri?re Hills volcano on Montserrat came back to life in 1995, triggering fears of an imminent eruption, and chasing half of the island’s 12,000 inhabitants away. In 1997, the volcano made good on its threats, and covered the southern part of the island, including Plymouth, the 200-year-old capital, with a giant, lava-spilling eruption.

Ever since the volcano stabilized, travelers teem there to see the aftermath, and investments pour in from abroad to keep the economy going. Guests at Hot Rock Hostel get front row seats to the spectacle, and hiking and boat tours are also available. For details on what the volcano is doing at any given time, you can also visit the Montserrat Observatory site.

An overview (if brief) glimpse of the contrast between the two sides of the island, destroyed and unscathed is perhaps best gleaned from up above, which you can achieve by flying to one of the nearby islands, such as Dominica, a volcanic powerhouse in itself (see above). In fact, some experts suspect that Dominica is primed for an eruption on a similar scale to that suffered on Montserrat.

Villarica Volcano - Chile

Villarica Volcano is 19 km from Puc?n, Chile’s adventure sports capital in the Lakes District, in the middle-south of this stringbean of country. Outfitters charge a pretty penny to suit you up with mountaineering boots, a nifty waterproof jumpsuit, helmet, and piolet, or ice axe. A several hour-long climb takes you up to about 9,000 feet, and when the snow cooperates, much of the descent is done on little sleds on snow chutes set up by the guides, and stopped (hopefully) through self-arrest with an ice axe, which has led to more than one emergency-room visit in recent years.

Thousands of hikers climb this volcano every year, though weather turns many people back before reaching the top. Depending on the wind, the sulfur fumes can be blinding, and the temperatures punishing up at the top. Other volcanoes in Chile that can be climbed in a relatively short time period include Guallatiri in the far north, and Lincancabur and Lacsa from touristy San Pedro de Atacama. The Llaima and Chaiten volcanoes (in the south) have both erupted very recently and at the moment are not considered climbable.

There is also a short ski season during the southern winter up on the slopes of Villarrica and Osorno (near Puerto Varas) volcanoes. The mother of all volcanoes, and the highest (probably active) volcano in the world is Ojos del Salado on the Argentine/Chilean border, but this is a several day trip that requires serious mountain gear.

Cotopaxi - Ecuador

Ecuador is home to Pichincha, Riminahui, Cotopaxi and Chimborazo volcanoes, and of these, Cotopaxi is perhaps the most emblematic and the most frequently climbed, though is does require an overnight at a refuge. At 19,347 feet, it is the second highest volcano in Ecuador (the first is Chimborazo), but not on the continent. That honor goes to Ojos del Salado, on the Chile/Argentina border (see above)

From Quito, you can hire a guide, though since the starting point of the hike is at nearly 15,000 feet, a number of days’ acclimation in Quito beforehand, as well as climbing some smaller, nearby mountains would be wise. Hikes up Cotopaxi start the day before, gain several hundred feet of elevation over the course of a few hours, and then have climbers resting/sleeping from 6 PM to around midnight. At 1 AM climbers begin their summit attempt. It generally takes approximately 7 hours to summit and 3 to arrive back to the parking lot. For those who just want to get close and then put the volcano behind them, some Quito outfitters offer mountainbike trips down from the park’s entrance.

El Misti - Peru

Beautifully symmetrical El Misti Volcano is 19,101 feet high, and is accessible from “the white city” of Arequipa in Per?, which itself is 2400 meters above sea level, which will help travelers to acclimate. Misti (which means the gentleman in Quechua) last erupted in 1870 and is the source of much of the white stone of which the city itself (the second largest in Peru) is constructed.

This trip takes two days and one night, and gives hikers the chance to descend into one of the three concentric craters, should energy abound. The first day involves a 4×4 trip to the end of the road, followed by a 6-8 hour hike, a night of “sleep” at 4800 meters, and a 4 AM wakeup to make the summit in about five hours. Participants can expect to drink copious amounts of coca tea and be cold, even in their -15C sleeping bags. Tour agencies recommend booking this trip before arriving in Arequipa, as it is quite popular.

For a list of volcanoes of the world, visit the Global Volcanism Project. For a list of volcanoes with recent and ongoing volcanic activity, please see the International Volcano Research Centre’s website.

If you’ve climbed one of these volcanoes, or another in the Americas, let us know in the comments.

Read about author Eileen Smith and check out her other BootsnAll articles.

Photo credits:
Mt. St. Helens by barcar on Flickr, Redoubt on wikicommons, Tequila by mickou on Flickr, Arenal by pawpaw67 on Flickr, Pacaya by Bruno Grin on Flickr, Conception by tarariffic7 on Flickr, Dominica on wikicommons, Monserrat on wikicommons, Cotopaxi on wikicommons, Villarica by andyinsouthamerica on Flickr, El Misti on wikicommons

Mexico: Baja California, Loreto - Two Great Adventure Trips for Families. Consider a whale watching family adventure in Baja’s Magdalena Bay with guaranteed whale sightings, chance to touch a whale. Or plan a spring break to Loreto on the Baja’s Sea of Cortez with whales, dolphins, and sea lions.

I have read with pleasure the descriptions of two exceptional trips available from Sea kayak Adventures. Kayaking (second only to river rafting) is the ideal way to share an adventure with a child or bond with your whole family without effort. One–on-one kayak time cannot be beat for making small talk easy and laughing seems to come naturally.

Our family has shared Baja moments and I can say firsthand it is an awesome part of the world not yet altered by electronic support systems and man’s commercial imprint. The water clear and cool is framed by rugged rocky terrain making for dramatic photos even if your child is making a funny face. The sea life is abundant and will cause daily squeals but our favorite activity enjoying the night sky with star blankets so thick no words can describe the beauty and the sound of whales breathing just off shore.

With my opinion out of the way I am sharing the trip descriptions provided to us by Sea Kayak Adventures. Beginning in January and concluding mid March they are conducting a 5-day whale watching trip from Puerto Lopez Mateos, Baja California which provides parents with a means to share an exciting whale watching experience with their children as young as eight.

The actual location on the planet is Sea Kayak Adventures’ Isla Santo Domingo base camp located right in the heart of the largest gray whale calving area.  However, this family adventure offers much more than simply seeing whales.  On Sea Kayak Adventures’ five-day whale watching base camp excursion in Baja California’s Magdalena Bay, adults and children can often actually touch one of the 20,000 gray whales that calve in the waters each winter.

“It’s the moment of a lifetime,” says SKA president Terry Prichard, “and whale sightings are guaranteed.”  Each day motorized skiffs take participants out to the deeper waters of Boca de Soledad, where ‘friendlies’ swim up to the boat.  In our exclusive safari-style beach camp in the heart of gray whale activity, as whales breach and spy-hop just offshore, guests can explore whalebone-littered beaches and look for herons, egrets, dolphins, and spouting grays.  That hollow sound after nightfall?  It’s whales breathing!  Guides versed in whale natural history lead fun activities for kids, point out wildlife, and prepare all meals.  Whales enjoy full protection of the Mexican federal government and one must be with a licensed guide to go whale watching here which means no crowds and responsible people in the area.

Cost: $895 for adults and 10% off for children age 8 through 17; and includes first and last nights’ accommodation in Loreto. Airfare is not included. Alaska/Horizon Air provides the best fares directly from Los Angeles (LAX) to Loreto (LTO) in southern Baja California, Mexico. Departures begin in January and run through March from Loreto, Mexico.  Dates include arrival and departure days, with three-days at the base camp.

Here’s the spring break deal. Book a spring break 2010 adventure by August 1, 2009 and one child goes free! In March & April 2010 Sea Kayak Adventures is offering a selection of  6 and 8-day (includes air travel days) sea kayaking trips for families with kids ages 11 and  older. This awesome water adventure is ideally suited for families with teens. The trip’s starting and ending point is Loreto and parents have the chance to paddle a sea kayak and bond with a teenager (hopefully your own) as endangered blue whales - more than four times as long as your kayak - plumb the depths for tasty crustaceans in Baja’s Sea of Cortez.  Participants paddle six miles per day ( 3 to 4 hours) looking for the world’s largest animals and explore desert islands in Mexico’s newest national marine park – Loreto Bay National Marine Park. 

Along the way you’ll also spot dolphins and sea lions, snorkel with angelfish in 72-degree water, and search for rare blue-footed boobies.  Spend nights camping on white sand beaches in sheltered coves and dining on Dutch oven brownies under starry skies framed by volcanic rock cliffs.

No previous kayaking or camping experience is necessary.  Stable two-person kayaks, paddling gear and instruction, snorkeling gear, meals and all camping supplies (including sleeping bags) are provided.  Our naturalist guides are enthusiastic experts at activities helping families have fun together!

Price starts at $995 US per adult (and 10% off for teens) including two nights’ lodging in Loreto and three to five nights’ camping.  Airfare is not included.  Alaska/Horizon Airlines offer direct service into Loreto (LTO) from Los Angeles (LAX).

Make it happen. Sea Kayak Adventures toll-free 1-800-616-1943 or www.seakayakadventures.com