Going Solo in Otranto, Italy

There I was, brochures spread out on the floor before me, propped up on elbows, poring over trips to Puglia, Italy. “When should we go?” I asked my favorite traveling companion, my husband, Steve. Then came his reply: “I’m not sure I can get away this year.”

Here’s the thing. For years I was the one who couldn’t travel - big corporate job, lots of stress, daunting workload - so as soon as I was eligible, I took early retirement. Then Steve, in a move that was completely counter-intuitive, went from a great nine-month contract as a professor to a twelve-month contract as an academic dean. Now I was the one longing to heed the call of ports unknown.

“But Steve, at my back, I hear Time’s winged-chariot. In other words, it’s time to suck the marrow, gather ye rosebuds.” Then, sheepishly, I added, “Maybe it’s time for me to go it alone.”

And that’s how it all began. In September, I was on my way to Otranto, Italy, to study at Porta d’Oriente, an Italian language school recognized by the universities for foreigners in Siena and Perugia, institutes of repute further north.

Ask any baby boomer what’s on her retirement checklist and she will tell you, travel and language acquisition. I was no different. I had been in love with la bella lingua for years and had taken adult education courses for just as long, but I needed total immersion.

After surfing the web for about thirty minutes I was sold on Otranto - as soon as I saw pictures of the charming lungomare along the Adriatic, the water that amazing cerulean blue, the sight of which suggesting ancient gods must have resided along this coast. A few emails later, I was enrolled in the school, assured an apartment would be waiting for me when I arrived, and that someone named Angelo would pick me up at the airport, drive me to Otranto, and hand over the keys to an apartment I would call home for two weeks. Dream or soon-to-be-reality?

Sure enough, after a not terrible flight to Rome (aisle seat, center section - could be worse), I connect to Brindisi and am passing through customs where I see the Porta d’Oriente sign.

“Ciao, Jean.”

“Ciao, Angelo.”

It’s working; I’m speaking Italian.

As we head out for Otranto, I try striking up a conversation with Angelo. No dice. It seems our ability to communicate hit its peak when we said hello. His English is matched by my Italian. I look outside my window and see the famed olive trees of Puglia and ancient abandoned trulli, the oddly-shaped, conical structures, once humble homes to farming families and their animals. I admire the view in silence.
When we arrive an hour later, I am relieved to see the town, as lovely as the pictures on the internet, the Castle of Otranto, standing like a barrel-chested sentry in the golden light of this September afternoon.

Angelo parks the car near the footbridge by the castle (no cars are allowed in the old town), and, hauling my bags, leads me through the meandering streets to my apartment on the Piazza del Popolo. He opens the shutters, and as I look out on the town below, I can see how well situated I will be here. The “apartment” is only a bedroom with a small kitchenette and a bathroom, but the real attraction is the roof-top terrace, with its panoramic sea view.

After Angelo leaves, I take a leisurely stroll around town. The height of the tourist season is over, but the busiest thoroughfare, Corso Garibaldi, is still bustling with people eating what appears to be sinfully creamy gelati and wandering in and out of the many shops and restaurants.

By Sunday night, I am like a kid before the first day of school. I even carefully arrange the clothes I will wear on a chair before I go to bed.

On Monday morning classes begin. Even in a total immersion environment, I know I can’t expect miracles, but the teachers appear professional and energetic, so I’m eager to start. The students this week come from Holland, Germany, Switzerland, and Poland. There is only one American, a flight attendant who speaks Southern Californian, but her Italian is pretty good.

I am in the basic class, which is small. There are Elizabeth from Switzerland, Manuella from Germany (both near my age), and Valery from Holland, a recent college graduate who will begin her advanced degree in the fall. My teacher this first week is Stephania, who speaks slowly and clearly, a blessing for me. I breathe a sigh of relief.

Near the end of the week, I decide that language acquisition travel is the way to go. Not only am I learning to speak Italian more confidently, I am learning the history of a culture little known to Americans. I have Barbara Dimitri, the young founder of the school, to thank for this. Wearing many hats, she also leads the tours, sharing her knowledge of the region, which, it turns out, is encyclopedic.

The tours, offered two or three times a week, take place in the afternoons after class. Some are free and last a few hours, others are five or six hours and cost 35 Euros, transportation and guide included. During my stay, the longer tours include an olive mill and winery; Greek Salento; Lecce, the “Florence of the South”; and the South Coast. In addition, there are tours of Otranto’s historical center and Barbara’s seminar on Tarantismo, about the “pinch” (pizzica) or bite of the tarantula, related to the traditional dance of the South, the Tarantella. I go to everything.

One of my favorite tours is to Greek Salento. On the way, I learn the old Greek dialect is still spoken in these nine towns where the heritage goes back to the 8th century, BC. Barbara explains (in Italian - I have to ask for clarification at times) that Salento has long been the door to the East in this most southeastern of Italy’s regions. Another tour not to be missed is to the South Coast, where, leaving Otranto, the shoreline turns to high cliffs. The Adriatic here is a deep dark blue, often erupting into frothy white caps, sending waves slamming onto the craggy rocks above.

At the end of the first week, I am tan and wearing a constant smile. In the evenings I spend hours on roof tops with classmates, eating, drinking, and laughing. On clear mornings, eating breakfast on the terrace, I can see the mountains of Albania in the distance.

All too soon, my last day of class arrives. I say a tearful good-bye to Stephania and to Barbara, who tells me she expects me to be in the advanced class one day. I give her another hug.

Saturday morning I spend shopping for gifts, finding AnimaMundi on a side street, where, seeing a book on yoga, I ask Giuseppe Conoci, the owner, if he knows where I can find a studio. I miss my regular yoga class, and as luck would have it, he is going tomorrow evening and will take me.

He picks me up with Francesca, the teacher. On the way, I learn that we are going to her family villa, where she teaches and holds retreats. The yoga studio looks like it might once have been a chapel, with its large interior and high-domed ceiling. One other student joins us for an intense practice of Ashtanga yoga. Francesca, an accomplished teacher, leads the class in Italian - I follow as best I can. She easily switches to English when she sees I need help.

After class, I am starving, so I invite Francesca and Giussepe to dinner at La Botte, a popular pizzeria. Finishing our wine, we are not quite ready for the evening to end. Francesca asks us to her place for amaro, the bittersweet after dinner drink. It turns out her “place” is the new five-star hotel, the Palazzo Papaleo, she and her husband, Mark, run. The palazzo has been in Francesca’s family for centuries. Several amari later, I realize it is getting late and that I must say good-night.

Walking home, I stop to look at the late night sky, stars still bright, but a distinct light beginning to emerge in the east. I take it all in one last time.

In the morning Angelo picks me up where he left me off two weeks earlier. On the way we have a lively conversation - in Italian. At the airport we say arrivederci. I only know the past and present tenses, so I cannot tell him in Italian that I will come back, but he knows. And so do I.

GETTING THERE: Best bet, connect through Rome. Flights generally start at $1,000. There are one hour flights on Alitalia to Bari or Brindisi ranging from $250 to $350. Trains to Otranto depart from both airports regularly. Check www.tranitalia.com for schedule and fares.

WHERE TO STUDY ITALIAN: Several Italian language schools in Otranto are recognized by the universities for foreigners in Siena and Perugia, such as Scuola Porta d’Oriente (www.porta-doriente.com/) and Italian Language School, ILS (www.ilsonline.it/).

SEEING THE SIGHTS: The language schools provide numerous excursions; tours of the area can also be arranged through independent groups, such as Salento Viaggi or Salentotime.

Don’t Miss:
Cattedrale dell’Annunziata for the mosaic tree of life covering the cathedral’s floor, open June-September, from 7 a.m.-12 p.m. and from 3 p.m.-8 p.m., Via Duomo, admission free.

Basicila di S. Pietro, a tiny 9th century Greek style church with colorful frescoes of
various biblical scenes. Open July 15th-September 15th, 10 a.m.-12p.m. and from 3:30 p.m.-8 p.m., Via S. Pietro, admission free.

The Alimini Lakes National Park, north of Otranto on the SS611, is perfect for a day trip. A venue for fishing, bathing in hot springs, and picnicking, there is the added plus of beautiful forests. Buses run daily during the summer.

WHERE TO STAY: The language schools provide apartments that are less expensive than most hotels or B&Bs.

Palazzo de Mori: A moderately priced B&B, in town and on the sea, with understated but elegant accommodations and a lovely breakfast. Daily rates from $117, higher in July and August. Tel: 39 0836 801088; www.palazzodemori.it.

Palazzo Papaleo: The new and only 5-star hotel in the center of Otranto, a gracious family-owned palace retaining its old world charm amid tasteful modern renovations. From $375. Tel: 39 0836 802108; www.hotelpalazzopapaleo.com.

Hotel Miramare: A 3-star hotel, well located across the street from one of the in town beaches, with comfortable accommodations. From $117. Tel: 39 0836 801023; www.miramareotranto.com.

WHERE TO EAT

La Botte, Via Guglielmotto d’Otranto, 39 0836 804293. A busy pizzeria/trattoria near the port where the locals eat. Great for pizza and pasta dishes. Dinner with house wine about $20 a person.

La Pignata, Corso Garibaldi, 39 0836 801284. Best for local seafood, prepared simply but well. Dinner with house wine about $50 per person.

Zia Fernanda, Via XXV Aprile, 39 0836 801884. Family-owned, casual restaurant, specializing in typical pasta and seafood dishes, frequented by locals and tourists alike. Dinner with house wine about $45 per person.

WHEN TO GO: April-mid June or September-mid October for good weather and lower prices. Months to avoid are July and August when temperatures soar and the city swells with tourists.

SPECIAL EVENTS OF INTEREST:
Festival of lamps, June 21-22, Calimera, in Greek Salento, marking the beginning of summer with fanciful and colorful paper lamps hung on overhead wires and lighting the night sky.

Festival of Saints, Peter and Paul, June 28-30, Galatina, in Greek Salento, a great opportunity to see the frantic dancing of the Tarantella to the beat of tambourines.

Festival of the Holy Martyrs, Otranto, commemorating the massacre of the venerated 800 who gave their lives during the Turkish invasion of 1480.

For additional information, go to www.comune.otranto.le.it/ to find the latest tourist information. Tip: Google Comune di Otranto and hit “translate this page” for English.

About the author:
Jean is a freelance writer with articles appearing in newspapers, magazines, and literary journals, including The Hartford Journal, Skirt!, Long Island Woman, upstreet, and The Distillery. A recent short story appears in the Spring,’09 issue of Slow Trains, on online literary journal. She lives with her husband, Steve, and black Lab, Sylvester in Greenwich CT. They spend their summers in Tyringham, MA, where Jean teaches yoga in her studio, the YogaBarn.

Photo by Paolo M?rgari on Flickr

7 Places to Visit in England Besides London

When I’m backpacking I always meet people who are travelling to London, but there is so much more to England than the nation’s capital. We may be a tiny and rather compact country but often travellers seem to think that England is London.

On several occasions friends of mine from other countries have said “I’m in London, fancy meeting up for a drink?” “Errr no I live in Manchester” is my response. Whilst the weather may not always be up to much, this country has some of the most spectacular countryside on offer- there’s a reason they call it the green and pleasant land. Here is my list of some of the most beautiful parts of England.

Devon & Cornwall

If you want to experience quintessential English villages, cream teas and country pubs, Devon & Cornwall is the perfect place to do just that. I spent countless summers as a child on the south coast of Devon, nicknamed the ‘English Riviera’, in the sailing towns of Salcombe and Dartmouth.

People often don’t realise that England has some spectacular coastline and the south coast of Devon has some of my most favourite beaches in the world. The north coast of Cornwall is home to the best surf in the UK with Polzeath and Newquay offering excellent waves.

The tiny fishing village of Port Isaac and Padstow have some of the finest restaurants in the country and if you want to mingle with the rich and famous and maybe spot a royal or meet your own Prince Harry, take a trip to Rock- Britain’s answer to St Tropez.

Cambridge

Submerge yourself in academia and appreciate the architecture of the many colleges in this famous university town. The world- renowned Cambridge University has seen many famous scientists and artists graduate through its doors including Newton, Darwin and Wordsworth.

Cambridge itself has stunning medieval buildings, courtyards, gardens and bridges as well as number of shops, bars and restaurants. Situated in the East of England, Cambridge sits on the River Cam.

Take a picnic and some strawberries and go ‘punting’ on the river. ‘Punting’ involves moving a boat along the river with a giant stick, a bit like the English version of a gondola - just don’t fall in!

Brighton

Instead of following fashion, Brighton leads it - it’s full of the most wacky, colourful, eccentric, up-and-coming and creative people. It’s a cool seaside town on the south coast of England with plenty going on, excellent shopping and some amazing nightlife. Brighton is a brilliant mix of bustling city life and laid-back beach lifestyle.

Just 50 minutes outside London, Brighton has famous landmarks including the Royal Pavilion, home of King George IV, and the Victorian promenade, Brighton Pier. The sea front is lined with surf shops, art galleries, fish and chip shops and buskers. This is a city of festivals too - not only is it home to Britain’s biggest arts festival, Brighton Festival, but there’s comedy, music and food festivals all year round.

Brighton happens to be the gay capital of England, so Brighton Summer pride is the biggest pride festival celebrating all things gay and lesbian. In December the Burning of The Clocks takes place to welcome the lengthening of the days, where people carry lanterns through the city, culminating in a huge pyrotechnic and firework display.

The Cotswolds

The Cotswolds is an area in central-West England and is well known for gentle hillsides, dry-stone walls and sleepy honey- coloured limestone villages. It lies between the cities of Stratford Upon Avon, Oxford and Bath and covers around 790 square miles - it is classified as the largest area of ‘outstanding natural beauty.’

It includes the famous spa city of Bath and the town of Cheltenham, home to horse racing. The Cheltenham Gold Cup horse race takes place every year in March and is part of a weeklong event, the Cheltenham Festival.

The Cotswolds is also rather a chic area with celebrity visitors and residents, critically acclaimed restaurants, gastro pubs and farmers’ markets. The area is truly beautiful, with manor houses, national trust properties, museums and gardens to visit.

The Yorkshire Dales

Yorkshire folk have a no-nonsense attitude, a great sense of humour, are fond of a cup of builder’s tea and make a great Yorkshire pudding (I have tried to describe this to people many a time - it’s made from batter and it’s like a cross between a pancake and a dumpling).

They also have beautiful dales (valleys) and heather moors, which are excellent for walking, hiking and mountain biking. If you don’t want to walk you can always take a steam train instead.

The Dales has sweeping valleys, sleepy meadows, high fells, broad-leaved woodland, dramatic rocky crags, caves, historic buildings and bustling market towns. The landscape is scattered with stone barns and houses and an abundance of waterfalls.

Manchester

In the words of Ian Brown ‘Manchester has everything but a beach.’ This is home of one of the most famous football teams in the world - when travelling anywhere in the world, even in some far off distant land, Mancunians like myself are asked, ‘Do you support Manchester United?’ So why not take the opportunity to visit the reds’ home ground and see a game at Old Trafford.

Manchester’s other export is the band Oasis, and any karaoke night abroad wouldn’t be complete without a bad rendition of Wonderwall. The MEN arena is a great venue to go and see famous music acts, and Manchester has a lively and original music scene.

England’s second largest is an industrial city with a multicultural community; try a curry on the Curry Mile, visit the famous Lowry Centre and Art Gallery or learn about Manchester’s history at the URBIS museum.

Manchester has a tram system for getting around and a big wheel offers panoramic views of the city and the surrounding areas. Nightlife centres around the Northern Quarter, Deansgate and Castlefield. With some parts rebuilt after the IRA bomb in 1996, Manchester is a perfect blend of old and new.

The Lake District

Once the home of Beatrix Potter and the inspiration for her childrens books, the Lake District is England’s largest National Park. It was also poet William Wordsworth’s inspiration and now nurtures a new generation of writers and artists.

Located in the North West of England the stunning scenery includes fells, valleys, peaks, towns and villages and of course lakes! It’s great for walking, climbing and cycling and you can also get on the water and do some sailing, kite surfing and windsurfing on the lakes and coastline.

So if you’re an outdoors-y type it is really worth going to this area of the North West. There are plenty of cafes, Michelin-starred restaurants and pubs for foodies and you can buy all sorts of individual arts and crafts.

Top things to do include taking a cruise on Lake Windermere, exploring the World of Beatrix Potter or visiting Wordsworth’s home, Dove Cottage.

Photo credits:
Manchester by samdiablo666 on Flickr, Cambridge by Prisoner 5413 on Flickr, Lake District by 1UK3 on Flickr, Yorkshire Dales by bbodien on Flickr, Brighton by jvoronine on Flickr, Cotswolds by James-Hetherington (away in Italy for 2 weeks) on Flickr, Devon and Cornwall by R P Marks on Flickr

Crowne Plaza Venice East-Quarto D’Altino - it’s in the ‘burbs

I would totally pay a penny to stay here

Clear water. http://www.flickr.com/photos/24716098@N06/2345340932/

The view from a vacation. http://www.flickr.com/photos/22266840@N00/53736988/