Alta, Utah – The Comfort of Familiar Places
Posted October 23, 2009 , comments closedAlta, Utah – The Comfort of Familiar Places
It’s not always about the new destination; it’s the comfort of familiar places
Last winter, the big fireside talk at the infamous Chateau Apres Lodge in Park City was Alta. Skiers say it’s the place to go for deep powder. If Deer Valley is the venue for those with deep pockets, Alta is for the ski purists because snow is the only thing there and skiing is the only thing to do.
It’s only September and I haven’t even finished my last race of the season, but I’m already filled with excitement about winter (I skipped autumn) and the skiing possibilities. I’ve already booked my air and hotel, so I’m good to go for my Christmas ski holiday.
But this trip is more than a birthday and Christmas gift to myself; it’s a time to reflect upon the year’s race season and a time to take a break and simply play (without any odometers, lap counting, fueling, speed training or racing). This trip is necessary as brushing one’s teeth; it’s a preventive measure.
How do you feel about your racing season? For me, it meant surpassing bike accidents and learning to keep going and re-defining my race goals a week before the race, being honest with myself about my true abilities, not making any race all encompassing and bigger than others and learning how to be less self-critical while learning from mistakes.
I’ve learned that racing is a very personal journey, as in many of life’s pursuits. As one grows from the novice level, improvement comes with each season. Each season has a theme, a feel that enables you to look back at each racing season and be objective, true and kind to yourself. As a novice skier, while I have yet to learn how to properly tackle the moguls, deep powder and all mountain terrain, I already have an idea of what I want for next year’s races. I want to qualify for the Boston Marathon and my local bike club’s A-level spring training program, which means I have to work on speed on foot and on the bike.
But I’m not type A by any means; I pride myself on being more grounded, so I look to the year-end after I finish all the year’s races as a time to retreat. Do you have such a place that you escape and retreat to? If not, you owe it to yourself to find your own personal haven. It could be a wellness spa that you go to once a year, a weekend program at your yoga center, the woods behind your home, but it’s a place that you can call home, that evokes the feelings of comfort and security.
Such a place for me are the mountains of Alta during the winter. While my ambitious side would prefer to leave no mountain range unexplored and no vantage point unviewed, the vast landscape makes that goal impossible to meet even if I decide to move to this old mining town.
I’ve learned that skiers return to Alta because it provides the comfort of home – warmth, connection, the inviting mountain and nature all around that makes you think you’ve found solace. Families congregate like clockwork at the hotel lounges and they know to line up early in the morning to get their desired dinner reservation time. Their children have grown up skiing at Alta and only have holiday recollections at their particular hotel. As strangers sharing the lift, one of the first questions tends to be, “Which hotel are you staying at?” And each skier is almost always a devotee to his/her hotel.
Since I carry my digital camera everywhere, I’ve had to stop a few times to try to capture the post card scenery of greenery peppered with real, wild, pure white powder. I’ve learned that expert, adventurous and even not-so-smart skiers love to discover new trails and go off-piste.
I am an avid solo female traveler who tends to seek others, yet I also revel in my own company. I rise early and am on line as the lift opens. I carb-up during lunch and waste no time so I can head out for the next half of my ski day. Sometimes I’ll stop along the mountain to catch my breath, take a break or more likely, to figure out the curves I will make to get to the bottom of a challenging slope. While I’m familiar with the main trails of this mountain, the variable snow and weather ensure that each familiar run never feels the same. Although I’ve never felt alone and was never one to return to the same destination, I have found the comfort, safety and security of returning to this familiar place.
There are lessons and tricks I’ve learned through my travels. As a runner, I never leave home without my running shoes. They’re a security blanket for me because I know I can work out whenever I want to, and in my travels I’ve discovered a certain beauty to early morning explorations. Some of my fondest running explorations include the Sahara desert and Christchurch, New Zealand (I discovered the Cadbury factory where I scored some free chocolates to take back to my roommate at the hotel). I always carry a water bottle with me when I travel to remind myself that I constantly need to drink. Since I’m all about traveling light, my travel clothes are those that I hardly wear at home. I wear them during my trip and donate them to the hotel after use.
My travel tradition has always been to spend my last day alone to let it all soak in. On my last day at Alta, I let myself be guided as I glided over all the fluffy snow underneath. I was surrounded by snow-capped peak mountains, the native trees and my heart lightened. I knew this is how it’s supposed to feel; I knew this is how I’m supposed to feel.
8 Small and Beautiful Italian Islands You’ve Probably Never Heard Of
Posted , comments closed8 Small and Beautiful Italian Islands You’ve Probably Never Heard Of
One of the most popular tourist destinations in the world, Italy has few, if any, unexplored corners. Places like Capri or Taormina can sometimes seem like a caricature of themselves, their natural beauty suffocating amidst tourist hoards and souvenir shops.
Yet, many spots are still as authentic and pristine as they were some 50 years ago. Italian islands that have escaped the trap of mass tourism are fascinating in their rugged beauty. Some of these islands have only limited tourist facilities, and you may find yourself the only English-speaking person around. Others are more developed, have their own airports, and can get very busy in August – the peak season. Their popularity ranges from unpolished and virtually unknown to non-Italians to those that are frequented by the rich and the famous. What these unique islands have in common is unspoilt nature – and total absence of package tourists.
Giglio
The island of Giglio belongs to the Tuscan Archipelago, famous for the bigger and much more crowded Elba and the uninhabited Montecristo Island. Giglio is basically a granite rock with only a few patches of cultivated land and a wild untouched feeling about it.
It has a handful of hotels and restaurants, which are quite modest, but offer very good value for money. Giglio is a good base to explore other Tuscan islands. However, keep in mind that the Tuscan archipelago is a marine reserve and access to some islands, notably Montecristo and Pianosa, is restricted to protect the environment. Besides, the island of Gorgona is a site of a penal colony, and no tourists are allowed to disembark on it.
Getting there: By ferry from Porto Santo Stefano in Tuscany. Ferries run several times each day throughout the year.
Pantelleria
This arid and incredibly windy volcanic island has been a favourite retreat of many celebrities, including Gérard Depardieu, Sting and Madonna. Pantelleria is an enchanted place, with steam spraying from the rocks, with mud baths and sauna caves, fumaroles and thermal sources. The emerald Specchio di Venere lake has healing waters that are fed by thermal springs.
Pantescan dammusi, unique lava stone houses with whitewashed cupola roofs, have been converted into chic hotels or solitary rented homes. A visit to Pantelleria is also a gastronomic delight. Highly recommended is the local Passito wine and dishes such as bitter ravioli, stuffed aubergines, fish couscous and the famous capers.
Getting there: Daily overnight ferries run from Trapani year round, with faster hydrofoil services available in the summer months. Planes fly in daily from Palermo and Trapani, with additional direct flights from Rome and Milan in the summer.
Lampedusa
Of all the Italian islands, Lampedusa is perhaps the most notorious due to its illegal immigrant problem. This southernmost Italian territory is situated just 113 km from Tunisia and is geographically in Africa rather than Europe.
It could have been described as bleak and arid, had it not been for some of Italy’s most beautiful beaches and lagoons. One of the cultural highlights of the island is on the 22nd of September, when a festival of Madonna di Lampedusa is celebrated with fireworks, processions, games and concerts.
Getting there: Siremar ferries from Porto Empedocle near Agrigento run all year, on most, but not all, days of the week.
Ponza
Ponza is a beautiful, narrow and long island with ragged coast, cliffs, hidden coves and beaches, and picturesque houses lining the slopes of the hills. It is a well known and well-visited, yet largely unspoilt island where life seems to flow as it always has, untouched by the rush of meodernity.
The downside of Ponza’s popularity is a certain lack of privacy, but the facilities are many and the hotels good. The most dramatically beautiful spot of the island is the beach of Chiaia di Luna, which can only be reached through a Roman tunnel.
Getting there: The easiest way to reach Ponza is from Naples by SNAV hydrofoil with a connection at Ventotene.
Panarea
The smallest of the fabled Aeolian islands, Panarea is the favourite of the jet-set crowd. However, this island with a population of just over 200 is too small to accommodate any substantial number of tourists, and has only a handful of unique hotels and rented homes. Boasting views of Stromboli, Panarea is a paradisical get-away-from-it-all island with a lifestyle as laid-back and relaxed as it can get in Italy. No cars are allowed, and the only modes of transportation are the electric golf buggies and a few scooters.
Watching the stars is a truly magical experience on Panarea. There is no electric street lighting, only Moroccan lamps and lanterns to light up outside stairs and terraces in the dark.
Getting there: Siremar and Ustica Lines have daily hydrofoil services from Milazzo and Messina. There is also a hydrofoil and ferry connection from Naples, Palermo and Cefalú several times a week.
Favignana
Favignana, off Trapani in Sicily, is a smooth, sun-drenched and wind-blown island. Accommodation is simple and family-run and the lifestyle is unpretentious. Favignana’s western part is dominated by Montagna Grossa which, despite its name, rises to a mere 302m.
The eastern part of the island, is flatter and the jagged coastline is interrupted, here and there, with short stretches of sandy beach. You can take a boat from Favignana to other Egadi islands, of which Levanzo is particularly beautiful, even if somewhat unkempt.
Getting there: there are ferry and hydrofoil services from Trapani every day, operated by Siremar and Ustica Lines, as well as additional ferry services from Naples during the peak summer months (June to September)
La Maddalena
Off the north-east coast of Sardinia, La Maddalena islands boast pink sandy beaches and crystal clear waters. The main and the largest island that gave the name to the archipelago has a population of about 11 000.
La Maddalena is linked to the island of Caprera by a 600 metre long dam and together they are the only inhabited islands of the archipelago. The US Navy has a submarine tender stationed on the island of Santo Stefano, and consequently you will find many Americans living on La Maddalena. It is worth visiting the minor islands – Budelli, Razzoli and Santa Maria, which together form a beautiful lagoon of Porto Madonna.
Getting there: Year-round ferries from Palau in Northern Sardinia run frequently, up to four times an hour, 24 hours a day.
San Domino
The biggest of the Tremiti Islands off the Adriatic coast of Italy, San Domino is one of those hidden gems few people have heard of. Because of its isolated nature, in the year 1000 it was chosen as an hermitage for Benedictine monks, who subsequently moved to the neighbour island of San Nicola.
San Domino has a rugged coastline with secluded coves and beaches, where fragrant pine woods go right to the water’s edge. It is a diver’s paradise with rich marine life, underwater caves and even a Roman shipwreck. San Domino is the only of the Tremiti islands with tourist accommodation, even though San Nicola is the official administrative centre.
Getting there: Tirrenia Ferries operates daily services from Termoli year round (one hour by train from the nearest airport of Pescara in Abruzzo).
Jack the Ripper Tour of London. Boo.
Posted , comments closedEditor’s note: In the run-up to Halloween and All Hallow’s Eve, we thought it would be fun to send Tina on a Jack the Ripper tour of London. Seems like this was a good call - Tina clearly was in the mood for a ghoulish tour of ye olde London towne.
It was a dark and blustery day in this dirty old town. Time was ripe to do something dangerous, weird and sinister. Well, perhaps I would just go and listen to something like that. I love all the crazy stories of London – if you have read Dickens you will know it have always been a throbbing hub of criminality and destitution. It still often feels that way as many of the buildings are remnants of times gone by, good and bad.
London’s full of nutters
So looking to satisfy my craving, I was able to get onto a tour which both intrigued and scared me… ye olde Jack the Ripper tour of London. I was a bit early for it, so I went and hung out at Trafalgar Square, which was super entertaining, and the entertainment was free! I tried taking photos of people taking photos of people on big black lions; also I tried to photograph a fella on a plinth dressed as a Raj and throwing about a vampire on a fishing pole.
This last statement may require explanation. And if it does not, you might want to consult a doctor. But the Raj man…This is all part of the fourth plinth project of Trafalgar Square – which has been empty for some time, and normally has on it commissioned projects. Well, the one at the moment is Antony Gormley’s “One and Other”, which allows people two hours to do whatever they like on the plinth. Some are very odd, and some are beautiful and interesting and some…well, downright bizarro. (Sadly the project ended October 14, so you just missed it!)
Jack the Ripper, it’s a mindset thing
Now I know some people who are well into this kind of thing – serial killers and the like. Well not really me – I have already worked in Mental Health, and some of my friends are a bit mad, so I don’t feel the need to get to know insanity any further.
However, there are those among us who love this kind of stuff; love getting into the mindset, or just the mystery of these kinds of events and people. And our host for the evening was evidently one such type. Full of vim, vigour and a good Scottish accent to heighten the senses, our guide John started off fairly quietly and ended with a good bang. We took a bus to the area where all of the attacks occurred, and started on our macabre journey. Starting at the (other) St Paul’s church, John described how it would have been then, and set the scene for our grim tour.
We trolled down these alleyways and backstreets, I would assume to avoid the crowds. The area where the Ripper was doing his bloody business is now a pumping hobo chic area that has lots of students, designers, hipsters (and, on Sundays, the Spitlefields Markets). But prior to this, the area was a run-down dingy place where everyone worked pretty hard for their coin, and a lot of people were still struggling to make ends meet.
Dim, dark, foggy, shivery
We began in Puma Lane, which is fairly narrow and haunting even during the day time. I enjoyed John’s descriptions, and his encouragement to imagine how it was back then. Now, I have read some reviews of this tour, and some people have been a bit persnickety about the ‘imagine’ parts of it.
Really, I just feel sorry that those people who obviously don’t have enough imagination. I was really drawn into the moment…for these streets really would be ominous. There was no electric bulbs at that time, and in some places not even the gas lamps. So when you put together the old brick buildings and the idea of dim, dark and foggy streets…oooh, shivery!
Now as you go through the streets and get your tour, some passersby do throw in comments and try to have a listen in. I know, because I sometimes do it, too. (Don’t hate me.) This just makes you concentrate more on what is being said. It can be quite intense this tour, because it was a grisly rampage the fellow went on; at one point after a description a girl had to have a wee sit down. So that is why the host asked for doctors and nurses in the audience. I must say, the Ripper did quite a nasty job on all of his victims, and it could be a little churning for those on the sensitive side.
But overall, it is not the physical act which is focussed on, but the psychology of the attacker. Of the cunning and skills he had to possess, and the mystery as to why he was never caught. The Ripper dubbed himself in a letter, and carried on his way for quite some time in these dank streets of east London.
Eating & drinking in the Ripper’s footsteps
Thankfully, there is a break in the middle of the tour, where you can grab a drink or a bite to eat. Now, if you are cluey, you can go down to the pub The Ten Bells, which is really a central part of the Ripper story. Inside, is quite cozy and well heeled, and does not retain what I would think the really hardcore working-class-pub feel of what it once was. But that is kind of this whole area. But take a beer during the break at this pub, and you will get to have the full experience, if you can imagine how it would have been over a century ago. Grime on the walls, everything pretty smelly, and beer in tankards with wenches a-plenty.
So we were on the last leg of the tour, the final victim and her story, which funnily enough started at the Ten Bells. We visited where her house would have been and heard the story, which was admittedly quite gory. And the best thing I liked about this part was one of the audience members who was eating ice cream while listening to the wicked and bloody tale. I commented, and she replied ‘oh I don’t mind, I’m a nurse’. Now I understand my sister a lot more (she is also a nurse).
So after the final story, we piled back in the bus, and John went through the theories of the time as to who the killer was, for he was never caught. I liked the one about the bonny Prince someone or other. We disembarked from the bus, assured by host and driver that the streets of London really are very safe and to have a lovely night. In fact a bloody marvellous night (pun intended).
-Tina Grace
Planning a tour? Browse Viator’s things to do in London, including London walking & biking tours such as the Jack the Ripper tour of London.
Five UNESCO Castles on One Small Island: Okinawa, Japan
Posted , comments closedFive UNESCO Castles on One Small Island: Okinawa, Japan
Okinawa, Japan was once an independent group of islands known as the Ryukyu Kingdom and kings built castles just like Wal-Mart builds shopping centers today. There are around 300 castle ruins, remnants of the 12th through 15th Century castle boom, scattered throughout the Ryukyu chain.
The largest castles were severely damaged or destroyed during World War II and over the past thirty years tremendous efforts have been put forth in restoring them to their original condition. Designated UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the year 2000, they are well maintained and contain a wealth of information for anyone interested in architecture, history, artifacts, photography, culture or just plain, ordinary sightseeing.
The island is only about 65 miles long and the castles are probably within a 40 mile radius of each other, but if you’re really into spending a lot of time researching in one spot; plan on staying a week!
Katsuren-jo
Located on a peninsula jutting out on the Pacific side of Okinawa, this castle was built sometime between the 12th and 13th Centuries.
This is the view of Katsuren-jo (Castle) from across the highway. If you wish to use restrooms or get something to eat, turn back; once you cross the street, you’ll be in a different Century.
The spacious parking lot has a small, air-conditioned museum, an attendant will give you an informative brochure (English) and, everything is free!
The castle offers a commanding view of the Pacific Ocean, as well as the area in all directions surrounding it. Excavation of artifacts demonstrates that trade was conducted between Japan, China, Korea and all of Southeast Asia.
The climb to the top, walking the entire circumference of the walls and grounds and snapping a few great photos takes less than an hour for most folks.
There’s a Mom and Pop refreshment stand that serves noodles, pastries and ice-cold drinks if you want to sit and rest awhile and work the kinks out of your legs before moving on to see the next monster.
Nakagusuku-jo
Centrally located, not far from today’s Okinawa City, this castle sits atop 160 meters of rugged cliffs overlooking the Pacific Coast. From the top of its walls you can also see the East China Sea.
An entrance fee of 300 Yen gets you admission and an English language pamphlet with an excellent map and descriptions of the construction, history and cultural significance of what you’re about to encounter.
Inside the walls are several sacred sites where, even today, locals worship their ancestors. Photography is permitted, but discretion is recommended where people are in praying.
It is said that when Commodore Perry visited in 1853, he was impressed with the mortar less construction technique used in building this immense castle.
Here is a view from above, facing the northern outer wall. This castle has been kept preserved in its original state more so than any in the Ryukyu chain of islands.
While most of the other restored castle ruins have smooth stone walkways and stairs, this relic has some ankle-twisting, original walks and steps to negotiate. Sturdy footwear; not high heels would be the wise option.
There are six separate, stone-walled enclosures to this sprawling behemoth and you could easily spend two hours navigating the site. The height of the structures, stone archways and trees provide shade from the blistering sun when it gets to be too much for you.
Nakajin-jo
Nakajin Castle is the northernmost of the World Heritage Castle Sites. It is at an elevation of about 100 meters above sea level on a peninsula jutting out from Okinawa’s northwest coast.
A fee of 400 Yen gets you a handy travel guide and access to everything on the site.
It has some sacred prayer sites, a museum; plenty of refreshment stands and hosts a Cherry Blossom Festival during the months of January and February.
This view is of the wall below, facing the East China Sea.
The exact date of construction is unknown, but it is believed to have been built before the thirteenth Century.
Many of the paths and stairways appear to be the original stone material. A good pair of walking shoes and caution when walking would be wise.
This treasure could easily eat up two hours of your time, especially if you visit the museum.
Shuri-jo
The throne of the Ryukyu Kingdom, Shuri Castle located in the hills above Naha was the center of the kingdom’s trade, culture and politics and in fact, Naha is still the capitol city of Okinawa, today.
Best guesses estimate the castle was originally built during the 12th or 13th Century and records indicate the it was burned-down and reconstructed several times over the years.
In 1945 during the battle of Okinawa, the castle was destroyed. Construction and restoration began in the early 1990’s and today it is the most visited tourist attraction on the island.
The port and Naha City are visible from the walls of Shuri Castle which overlooks the East China Sea.
This is the only castle on the island that provides some wheelchair accessibility and for those who favor sandals or high heels the Shuri Castle Park is foot and ankle friendly.
An 800 Yen entrance fee gets you in for the day; 1600 Yen will gain you a one year passport for access, so if you’re really an avid castle and culture explorer, you may consider coughing up the big bucks. Kind of like Disneyland, there’s more to this place than you can absorb in just one visit.
Zakimi-jo
An early 15th Century Castle sits 120 meters above sea level along the Pacific coast and is located in the center portion of the island at Yomitan Village.
This is the only World Heritage castle in Okinawa that rests on red clay footings; all the others were constructed on limestone based mountains.
No entry fee is charged to tour the grounds, here.
In an hour you can tour the entire sprawling complex, capture some great photos, admire the arches and architecture then, go look for some shade; it’s scarce.
After a visit to the castle, it is well worth the 200 Yen fee charged to enter the museum. Besides being in a climate-controlled atmosphere, there are 400,000 items on exhibit to see, photograph or to study.
Pictured here are some of the items associated with the fishing culture of Okinawa. There’s much more to be seen; artifacts from the Ryukyu Dynasty, farm implements, textiles, art and a few items that’ll make the hair stand-up on the back of your neck!
More info: http://www.wonder-okinawa.jp/002/001/e_index.html
About the author:
Michael Lynch, known in some circles as Ryukyu Mike, is a photographer and writer living in Okinawa, Japan. His writings and photos of Okinawa appear in several magazines.
Google & The Infinite SEO-PPC Loop
Posted , comments closedA while back, we had a meltdown about some really awful Google Local and Google Map results. We were clearly not the only ones complaining - in fact, here’s a good article from Danny Sullivan speaking to Sergey Brin about the problems with Google maps and local.
Can you tell I’m about to complain about Google again? Yes here it comes. Matt Cutts, are you listening?
The infinite SEO-PPC loop
I did a Google search for “things to do in Rome” and noticed the #1 natural result was for TripAdvisor. Fair enough, they’re a massive site with many pages of content. They tend to rank well for many searches. Nothing strange about this.
Then I looked at Google’s description of the TripAdvisor page. Sometimes Google displays the page’s meta description. Sometimes Google displays random content from the page, especially if the page content is more relevant to the search query.
In this case I was surprised - to say the least - to see our own website (Viator.com) listed in the page description. Now Viator and TripAdvisor are erstwhile competitors. I would never expect us to have any content on the TripAdvisor page to Rome. So how did that content get there?
Click over and behold! TripAdvisor is publishing Google PPC ads on its Rome page (nothing wrong with that), and Viator.com is paying for a Google PPC ad about things to do in Rome (nothing wrong with that).
So what’s my problem? Well, here’s the thing - Google is essentially using the advertisement Viator has paid for (including the ad copy we wrote, highly targeted to Rome) as part of the scrape of content on this TripAdvisor page.
Think about it - TripAdvisor is winning in 2 ways. First of all, they’re making money from Viator and other advertisers whenever people click on the ads. Fair enough, that’s what ads are for. However TripAdvisor is also getting an SEO boost from Viator (and other advertisers which are listed in the page description). The ad we created is being included in Google’s scrape of the page content, and Google is giving credit to TripAdvisor for having such fantastically taregted content (which Viator created!!) on its page. Annoying.
We write a targeted ad about something. And Google uses that content to boost the SEO result of the site it appears on.
That ain’t right!
It means that Google is allowing publishers of its PPC ads to benefit from the ad copy they publish, which is provided by its paying advertisers. This is not how it’s meant to work. Google should not be using AdSense PPC ad copy to influence its own natural search results.
Let me put that more plainly - Google (the search engine) should know better than to use Google (the advertiser) as a factor in its search results. It’s the kind of thing Google would consider spammy and dangerous if another advertiser was doing it. So how come Google gets away with it? Google might say the ad content is not being factored into the SEO rank, but only being displayed since the ad content is so clearly relevant to the search query. But that’s a bogus argument. If it’s being displayed as part of the natural search results, everybody and their mother will assume the page in question is relevant for the search query.
And in this case, the most relevant thing about “things to do in Rome” on that page is (according to Google) Viator.com’s very own ad!! At best, Google is just being sloppy about what content to show in its natural results. At worst, Google is allowing TripAdvisor to channel natural search users to a page where the most relevant content is - lo and behold! - a Google PPC ad, in the hopes users will click on it (thereby making money for both the advertiser and Google).
So Google, which is it?
If you know of other examples like this, let me know. I’m curious what - if anything - Google will do about this.
-Scott McNeely
Post script: Since this was posted, we’ve had an anonymous tipster explain what’s really happening. Alex Bainbridge also wrote a useful blog post about this. It seems this is a TripAdvisor SEO tactic — they’re using the AdSense API to grab targeted ad copy and then embed that in the html of the page. This is then crawled by googlebot, which ’sees’ the ad copy as part of the page content. Clever. But wrong. And TripAdvisor ought to be punished.
Maybe not, you say, if this practice is not outlawed by the Google AdSense terms & conditions. Well, I’m not bothering to check. Because whether or not it is outlawed, it should be outlawed. Google, how can you possibly defend this SEO tactic? It’s spammy, pure and simple, and you should not let websites do it.
Google - just imagine if every single AdSense publisher on the planet used this same tactic. It would quickly make a laughing-stock of your natural search results.



