Jack the Ripper Tour of London. Boo.
Posted October 23, 2009 , comments closedEditor’s note: In the run-up to Halloween and All Hallow’s Eve, we thought it would be fun to send Tina on a Jack the Ripper tour of London. Seems like this was a good call - Tina clearly was in the mood for a ghoulish tour of ye olde London towne.
It was a dark and blustery day in this dirty old town. Time was ripe to do something dangerous, weird and sinister. Well, perhaps I would just go and listen to something like that. I love all the crazy stories of London – if you have read Dickens you will know it have always been a throbbing hub of criminality and destitution. It still often feels that way as many of the buildings are remnants of times gone by, good and bad.
London’s full of nutters
So looking to satisfy my craving, I was able to get onto a tour which both intrigued and scared me… ye olde Jack the Ripper tour of London. I was a bit early for it, so I went and hung out at Trafalgar Square, which was super entertaining, and the entertainment was free! I tried taking photos of people taking photos of people on big black lions; also I tried to photograph a fella on a plinth dressed as a Raj and throwing about a vampire on a fishing pole.
This last statement may require explanation. And if it does not, you might want to consult a doctor. But the Raj man…This is all part of the fourth plinth project of Trafalgar Square – which has been empty for some time, and normally has on it commissioned projects. Well, the one at the moment is Antony Gormley’s “One and Other”, which allows people two hours to do whatever they like on the plinth. Some are very odd, and some are beautiful and interesting and some…well, downright bizarro. (Sadly the project ended October 14, so you just missed it!)
Jack the Ripper, it’s a mindset thing
Now I know some people who are well into this kind of thing – serial killers and the like. Well not really me – I have already worked in Mental Health, and some of my friends are a bit mad, so I don’t feel the need to get to know insanity any further.
However, there are those among us who love this kind of stuff; love getting into the mindset, or just the mystery of these kinds of events and people. And our host for the evening was evidently one such type. Full of vim, vigour and a good Scottish accent to heighten the senses, our guide John started off fairly quietly and ended with a good bang. We took a bus to the area where all of the attacks occurred, and started on our macabre journey. Starting at the (other) St Paul’s church, John described how it would have been then, and set the scene for our grim tour.
We trolled down these alleyways and backstreets, I would assume to avoid the crowds. The area where the Ripper was doing his bloody business is now a pumping hobo chic area that has lots of students, designers, hipsters (and, on Sundays, the Spitlefields Markets). But prior to this, the area was a run-down dingy place where everyone worked pretty hard for their coin, and a lot of people were still struggling to make ends meet.
Dim, dark, foggy, shivery
We began in Puma Lane, which is fairly narrow and haunting even during the day time. I enjoyed John’s descriptions, and his encouragement to imagine how it was back then. Now, I have read some reviews of this tour, and some people have been a bit persnickety about the ‘imagine’ parts of it.
Really, I just feel sorry that those people who obviously don’t have enough imagination. I was really drawn into the moment…for these streets really would be ominous. There was no electric bulbs at that time, and in some places not even the gas lamps. So when you put together the old brick buildings and the idea of dim, dark and foggy streets…oooh, shivery!
Now as you go through the streets and get your tour, some passersby do throw in comments and try to have a listen in. I know, because I sometimes do it, too. (Don’t hate me.) This just makes you concentrate more on what is being said. It can be quite intense this tour, because it was a grisly rampage the fellow went on; at one point after a description a girl had to have a wee sit down. So that is why the host asked for doctors and nurses in the audience. I must say, the Ripper did quite a nasty job on all of his victims, and it could be a little churning for those on the sensitive side.
But overall, it is not the physical act which is focussed on, but the psychology of the attacker. Of the cunning and skills he had to possess, and the mystery as to why he was never caught. The Ripper dubbed himself in a letter, and carried on his way for quite some time in these dank streets of east London.
Eating & drinking in the Ripper’s footsteps
Thankfully, there is a break in the middle of the tour, where you can grab a drink or a bite to eat. Now, if you are cluey, you can go down to the pub The Ten Bells, which is really a central part of the Ripper story. Inside, is quite cozy and well heeled, and does not retain what I would think the really hardcore working-class-pub feel of what it once was. But that is kind of this whole area. But take a beer during the break at this pub, and you will get to have the full experience, if you can imagine how it would have been over a century ago. Grime on the walls, everything pretty smelly, and beer in tankards with wenches a-plenty.
So we were on the last leg of the tour, the final victim and her story, which funnily enough started at the Ten Bells. We visited where her house would have been and heard the story, which was admittedly quite gory. And the best thing I liked about this part was one of the audience members who was eating ice cream while listening to the wicked and bloody tale. I commented, and she replied ‘oh I don’t mind, I’m a nurse’. Now I understand my sister a lot more (she is also a nurse).
So after the final story, we piled back in the bus, and John went through the theories of the time as to who the killer was, for he was never caught. I liked the one about the bonny Prince someone or other. We disembarked from the bus, assured by host and driver that the streets of London really are very safe and to have a lovely night. In fact a bloody marvellous night (pun intended).
-Tina Grace
Planning a tour? Browse Viator’s things to do in London, including London walking & biking tours such as the Jack the Ripper tour of London.
Five UNESCO Castles on One Small Island: Okinawa, Japan
Posted , comments closedFive UNESCO Castles on One Small Island: Okinawa, Japan
Okinawa, Japan was once an independent group of islands known as the Ryukyu Kingdom and kings built castles just like Wal-Mart builds shopping centers today. There are around 300 castle ruins, remnants of the 12th through 15th Century castle boom, scattered throughout the Ryukyu chain.
The largest castles were severely damaged or destroyed during World War II and over the past thirty years tremendous efforts have been put forth in restoring them to their original condition. Designated UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the year 2000, they are well maintained and contain a wealth of information for anyone interested in architecture, history, artifacts, photography, culture or just plain, ordinary sightseeing.
The island is only about 65 miles long and the castles are probably within a 40 mile radius of each other, but if you’re really into spending a lot of time researching in one spot; plan on staying a week!
Katsuren-jo
Located on a peninsula jutting out on the Pacific side of Okinawa, this castle was built sometime between the 12th and 13th Centuries.
This is the view of Katsuren-jo (Castle) from across the highway. If you wish to use restrooms or get something to eat, turn back; once you cross the street, you’ll be in a different Century.
The spacious parking lot has a small, air-conditioned museum, an attendant will give you an informative brochure (English) and, everything is free!
The castle offers a commanding view of the Pacific Ocean, as well as the area in all directions surrounding it. Excavation of artifacts demonstrates that trade was conducted between Japan, China, Korea and all of Southeast Asia.
The climb to the top, walking the entire circumference of the walls and grounds and snapping a few great photos takes less than an hour for most folks.
There’s a Mom and Pop refreshment stand that serves noodles, pastries and ice-cold drinks if you want to sit and rest awhile and work the kinks out of your legs before moving on to see the next monster.
Nakagusuku-jo
Centrally located, not far from today’s Okinawa City, this castle sits atop 160 meters of rugged cliffs overlooking the Pacific Coast. From the top of its walls you can also see the East China Sea.
An entrance fee of 300 Yen gets you admission and an English language pamphlet with an excellent map and descriptions of the construction, history and cultural significance of what you’re about to encounter.
Inside the walls are several sacred sites where, even today, locals worship their ancestors. Photography is permitted, but discretion is recommended where people are in praying.
It is said that when Commodore Perry visited in 1853, he was impressed with the mortar less construction technique used in building this immense castle.
Here is a view from above, facing the northern outer wall. This castle has been kept preserved in its original state more so than any in the Ryukyu chain of islands.
While most of the other restored castle ruins have smooth stone walkways and stairs, this relic has some ankle-twisting, original walks and steps to negotiate. Sturdy footwear; not high heels would be the wise option.
There are six separate, stone-walled enclosures to this sprawling behemoth and you could easily spend two hours navigating the site. The height of the structures, stone archways and trees provide shade from the blistering sun when it gets to be too much for you.
Nakajin-jo
Nakajin Castle is the northernmost of the World Heritage Castle Sites. It is at an elevation of about 100 meters above sea level on a peninsula jutting out from Okinawa’s northwest coast.
A fee of 400 Yen gets you a handy travel guide and access to everything on the site.
It has some sacred prayer sites, a museum; plenty of refreshment stands and hosts a Cherry Blossom Festival during the months of January and February.
This view is of the wall below, facing the East China Sea.
The exact date of construction is unknown, but it is believed to have been built before the thirteenth Century.
Many of the paths and stairways appear to be the original stone material. A good pair of walking shoes and caution when walking would be wise.
This treasure could easily eat up two hours of your time, especially if you visit the museum.
Shuri-jo
The throne of the Ryukyu Kingdom, Shuri Castle located in the hills above Naha was the center of the kingdom’s trade, culture and politics and in fact, Naha is still the capitol city of Okinawa, today.
Best guesses estimate the castle was originally built during the 12th or 13th Century and records indicate the it was burned-down and reconstructed several times over the years.
In 1945 during the battle of Okinawa, the castle was destroyed. Construction and restoration began in the early 1990’s and today it is the most visited tourist attraction on the island.
The port and Naha City are visible from the walls of Shuri Castle which overlooks the East China Sea.
This is the only castle on the island that provides some wheelchair accessibility and for those who favor sandals or high heels the Shuri Castle Park is foot and ankle friendly.
An 800 Yen entrance fee gets you in for the day; 1600 Yen will gain you a one year passport for access, so if you’re really an avid castle and culture explorer, you may consider coughing up the big bucks. Kind of like Disneyland, there’s more to this place than you can absorb in just one visit.
Zakimi-jo
An early 15th Century Castle sits 120 meters above sea level along the Pacific coast and is located in the center portion of the island at Yomitan Village.
This is the only World Heritage castle in Okinawa that rests on red clay footings; all the others were constructed on limestone based mountains.
No entry fee is charged to tour the grounds, here.
In an hour you can tour the entire sprawling complex, capture some great photos, admire the arches and architecture then, go look for some shade; it’s scarce.
After a visit to the castle, it is well worth the 200 Yen fee charged to enter the museum. Besides being in a climate-controlled atmosphere, there are 400,000 items on exhibit to see, photograph or to study.
Pictured here are some of the items associated with the fishing culture of Okinawa. There’s much more to be seen; artifacts from the Ryukyu Dynasty, farm implements, textiles, art and a few items that’ll make the hair stand-up on the back of your neck!
More info: http://www.wonder-okinawa.jp/002/001/e_index.html
About the author:
Michael Lynch, known in some circles as Ryukyu Mike, is a photographer and writer living in Okinawa, Japan. His writings and photos of Okinawa appear in several magazines.
Google & The Infinite SEO-PPC Loop
Posted , comments closedA while back, we had a meltdown about some really awful Google Local and Google Map results. We were clearly not the only ones complaining - in fact, here’s a good article from Danny Sullivan speaking to Sergey Brin about the problems with Google maps and local.
Can you tell I’m about to complain about Google again? Yes here it comes. Matt Cutts, are you listening?
The infinite SEO-PPC loop
I did a Google search for “things to do in Rome” and noticed the #1 natural result was for TripAdvisor. Fair enough, they’re a massive site with many pages of content. They tend to rank well for many searches. Nothing strange about this.
Then I looked at Google’s description of the TripAdvisor page. Sometimes Google displays the page’s meta description. Sometimes Google displays random content from the page, especially if the page content is more relevant to the search query.
In this case I was surprised - to say the least - to see our own website (Viator.com) listed in the page description. Now Viator and TripAdvisor are erstwhile competitors. I would never expect us to have any content on the TripAdvisor page to Rome. So how did that content get there?
Click over and behold! TripAdvisor is publishing Google PPC ads on its Rome page (nothing wrong with that), and Viator.com is paying for a Google PPC ad about things to do in Rome (nothing wrong with that).
So what’s my problem? Well, here’s the thing - Google is essentially using the advertisement Viator has paid for (including the ad copy we wrote, highly targeted to Rome) as part of the scrape of content on this TripAdvisor page.
Think about it - TripAdvisor is winning in 2 ways. First of all, they’re making money from Viator and other advertisers whenever people click on the ads. Fair enough, that’s what ads are for. However TripAdvisor is also getting an SEO boost from Viator (and other advertisers which are listed in the page description). The ad we created is being included in Google’s scrape of the page content, and Google is giving credit to TripAdvisor for having such fantastically taregted content (which Viator created!!) on its page. Annoying.
We write a targeted ad about something. And Google uses that content to boost the SEO result of the site it appears on.
That ain’t right!
It means that Google is allowing publishers of its PPC ads to benefit from the ad copy they publish, which is provided by its paying advertisers. This is not how it’s meant to work. Google should not be using AdSense PPC ad copy to influence its own natural search results.
Let me put that more plainly - Google (the search engine) should know better than to use Google (the advertiser) as a factor in its search results. It’s the kind of thing Google would consider spammy and dangerous if another advertiser was doing it. So how come Google gets away with it? Google might say the ad content is not being factored into the SEO rank, but only being displayed since the ad content is so clearly relevant to the search query. But that’s a bogus argument. If it’s being displayed as part of the natural search results, everybody and their mother will assume the page in question is relevant for the search query.
And in this case, the most relevant thing about “things to do in Rome” on that page is (according to Google) Viator.com’s very own ad!! At best, Google is just being sloppy about what content to show in its natural results. At worst, Google is allowing TripAdvisor to channel natural search users to a page where the most relevant content is - lo and behold! - a Google PPC ad, in the hopes users will click on it (thereby making money for both the advertiser and Google).
So Google, which is it?
If you know of other examples like this, let me know. I’m curious what - if anything - Google will do about this.
-Scott McNeely
Post script: Since this was posted, we’ve had an anonymous tipster explain what’s really happening. Alex Bainbridge also wrote a useful blog post about this. It seems this is a TripAdvisor SEO tactic — they’re using the AdSense API to grab targeted ad copy and then embed that in the html of the page. This is then crawled by googlebot, which ’sees’ the ad copy as part of the page content. Clever. But wrong. And TripAdvisor ought to be punished.
Maybe not, you say, if this practice is not outlawed by the Google AdSense terms & conditions. Well, I’m not bothering to check. Because whether or not it is outlawed, it should be outlawed. Google, how can you possibly defend this SEO tactic? It’s spammy, pure and simple, and you should not let websites do it.
Google - just imagine if every single AdSense publisher on the planet used this same tactic. It would quickly make a laughing-stock of your natural search results.
31 Places to Go for Halloween
Posted October 17, 2009 , comments closed31 Places to Go for Halloween
With Halloween just around the corner, you may be wondering where some of the spookiest, creepiest, eeriest, most haunted and/or best places to visit on Halloween are located around the world. Places where mummies stare back at you or ghosts roam the hallways, caves where witches hide from the world or dungeons where people were once imprisoned and tortured are scattered throughout the world, giving the heebie jeebies to travelers and residents alike.
So, in honor of this spooky holiday, here is a list of the 31 creepiest Halloween destinations around the world. And, we’re not talking fake haunted houses and corn mazes with paid actors. We’re talking downright terrifying places where mysterious happenings occur year-round and which are guaranteed to give you goose bumps. From haunted prisons to caves to catacombs, these bone chilling places will scare the daylights out of you, and may just give you nightmares for weeks.
1. Mummy Museum, Guanajuato, Mexico
Their haunting faces and hollowed eye sockets will make you quake in your boots. Teeth exposed from open mouths, fingers stiffly crooked for eternity, grey skin clinging to protruding hip bones and ribs, shoes still laced on unmoving, shriveled feet… The Mummy Museum in Guanajuato will haunt you long after your return from this picturesque Mexican colonial town nestled in the hills of the highlands in Mexico. However, these mummified remains are still a mystery to this day.
The mummies were originally exhumed when families were unable to pay a burial tax due each year for deceased relatives. When a family was unable to pay the tax, the body of their relative was exhumed and put on display in the mummy museum. The puzzling part? Rather than decomposing the way bodies usually do after being buried, these corpses were naturally mummified, leaving clothes, skin and sometimes hair preserved and intact. The reason? Some hypothesize it has something to do with the mixture of minerals in the soil, some think there is something a little more paranormal going on.
Either way, after an afternoon in this creepy museum full of mummies of all shapes and sizes (there are even baby mummies that look creepily like little dolls), you are guaranteed to have the heebie jeebies.
2. St. Michan’s Church, Dublin, Ireland
Although St. Michan’s church in Dublin, Ireland was founded in the mid 16th century and has the oldest organ still in use in the entire country, this next creepy destination is much more known for the vault that lies beneath the church. Down a limestone and mortar tunnel that extends below the church is a series of galleries for placing coffins.
Some galleries have been sealed off with wooden or iron doors, others have been left open. Through the iron doors of some, visitors can take a peek at a multitude of coffins laying helter skelter, the occasional arm or leg poking from the coffin lid. Then, in one of the open chambers, deep in the dark, damp tunnels below the church are 4 caskets with the lids completely removed, exposing mysteriously mummified remains—corpses partly covered with a layer of taut, leathery skin. Three of the four coffins lie in a row with a woman on the right, a man with a hand cut off and both feet missing in the center and a nun on the left. Some hypothesize the corpse is missing limbs because he was a thief and was punished by having them cut off, others believe he was simply too large to fit in the casket.
The final mummy in the vaults of St. Michan’s is a man believed to have been a soldier returned from the crusades, whose body is cut in half to fit in the casket and whose hand lifts eerily into the air. If visitors are brave enough to venture further into the underground vaults, they can see the caskets of the Sheare brothers, who were hanged, drawn and quartered in punishment for treason after an uprising in 1798. The most mysterious thing about the mummies of St. Michan is that no one understands why these bodies have not decomposed like others in surrounding areas. Maybe it’s the climate in the underground vaults, maybe it’s the high concentration of lime in the soil, or maybe it’s just something a little more paranormal and a lot spookier. It’s up to you to decide.
3. Catacombs of Paris, France
Although a popular tourist attraction year-round, the famous catacombs of Paris are a particularly good place to visit in honor of Halloween. The underground ossuary, which was organized in a section of the city’s vast network of underground tunnels in the 18th century, were designated as a place to store the remains from condemned cemeteries in the Paris city limits. In the late 1700s, bodies from several burial grounds in Paris were moved into the underground tunnels. The result is the mass stacking of bones you see today, with skulls and femurs lining the walls like decorations.
The creepy Parisian catacombs have also inspired ghostly stories for generations. King of creepy, Edgar Allen Poe uses the Paris catacombs as a reference in his story the “Cask of Amontillado” and there have been several books written about vampires who seek refuge among the bones and dead in the catacombs. Who knows, maybe the next time you are roaming the bone filled tunnels below Paris you may just see a monster living among the dead.
4. Old Jewish Cemetery, Prague, Czech Republic
The cracked and cock-eyed tombstones in the Old Jewish Cemetery in Prague date back to the 15th century and this cemetery is the second oldest Jewish burial site in all of Europe. The crooked graves and tombstones, with caskets protruding from the ground in some places, give this cemetery a definite creepy crawly feel.
It is unknown how many people are actually buried in this cemetery, because the tombs have been layered on top of each other. In fact, it is because Jews were forbidden to bury their dead outside of their own quarter that these layers of tombs and stacked remains (there are thought to be twelve) exist. Surrealist author Franz Kafka also often enjoyed periods of reflection in this creepy, old graveyard. Perhaps he was seeking inspiration for his next work.
5. San Bernardino Ossuary, Milan, Italy
In a non-distinct and rather unassuming church in Milan is a church full of bones. As you turn the corner in this plainly decorated little church and venture down a cold, narrow hallway (I’m getting the creeps just thinking about it) you find yourself in a chilly, one-room chapel with walls lined with human bones. The cages along the walls, holding skulls and leg and arm bones, are stacked high to the ceiling – but rather than just utilitarian piles or plain old orderly stacks, most of the bones are arranged in a decorative fashion, including several large panels where the bones are formed into cross-like designs.
In wire cases along the back doors are the skulls from individuals who had been beheaded in a nearby piazza outside the modern day La Scala opera house. As it turns out, this chapel in San Bernardino alle Ossa became a storage place for bones when a cemetery next door became full, and in 1210 a room was built to house the bones of deceased. So, since the 13th century, dead people (and maybe their spirits) have been housed in this little church in Milan. What says Halloween better than hanging out with a bunch of bones?
6. Bhangarh, India
In a ghost town in the Rajasthan state of India between Jaipur and Alwar City, there remain ruins from a once prosperous town that was mysteriously and abruptly abandoned. Although tranquil during the day, it is said no one dares to hang out in this ghost city after dark because, as legend has it, a curse forced the whole town to be vacated overnight. While some may scoff at this myth, even the Archaeological Survey of India has placed its office near Bhangarh close to a temple to protect it from spirits of the town and has placed a sign stating: “Staying after sunset is strictly prohibited in this area.”
There is a myth surrounding this ghost town that involves a princess and a magician who fell madly in love with her. The magician tried to use his black magic to make the princess his sexual slave, but was killed when his plan was foiled. Legend has it that as the magician died; he cursed the city and wished eternal death upon any person dwelling in the town. The following year, there was a huge battle in the town, which killed everyone involved. Since then, it has been said that anyone who dared to live in Bhangarh would have their roof collapse and would die—which is mysterious as today all of the ruins of houses are without a roof. Whether the creepy legend is true or not, if the Archaeological Survey of India thinks this place is too dangerous at night, so do I.
7. Dia de los Muertos Celebration, Oaxaca, Mexico
On All Hallows Eve, Mexican families are known to don costumes, visit the graves of their loved ones, and hold parades in honor of their deceased friends and relatives. Although practiced all over Mexico, Dia de los Muertos is one of the most important celebrations in Oaxaca, as well as one of the most visited events by outsiders. Skeletons are the decoration of choice, and locals pass cemeteries with food, music and drinks, emphasizing both death and celebration at the same time.
The Day of the Dead is a tradition that fused macabre celebrations from Europe with ancient Mayan and Aztec traditions, which resulted in the modern day festivities. The Day of the Dead celebration in Oaxaca is known as one of the largest and most boisterous in all of Mexico, and with skeletons decorating the entire city, lots of traditional food and drinks made in honor of the dead, and a large cemetery parade, Oaxaca is one of the best places for any traveler to visit on Halloween. It will get you in the Halloween spirit and have you wishing Halloween in the United States was as colorful and involved as much pageantry as it does in Mexico.
8. Sedlec Ossuary, near Kutna Hora, Czech Republic
Although there are a scattering of ossuaries across Europe, where bone filled walls will give anyone the creeps, this famous ossuary in Sedlec in the Czech Republic is one of the largest, most ornate and spookiest ossuaries of them all. It is thought there are 40,000-70,000 human skeletons in this church, which have been artistically arranged to form decorations and furniture in the church. The site of the church has long been a cemetery, but during the Black Death that swept Europe and killed thousands, a church was built at the site to make room for all of the dead.
Around 1400, the gothic style church was built and the lower chapel was used to house the mass amount of graves unearthed during construction. A monk was given the task of exhuming remains and stacking the bones in the chapel. In 1870, with the hundreds of thousands of bones in disarray, woodcarver named Frantisek Rint was hired to organize the heaping piles of bones. The result was a macabre masterpiece, including bell shaped mounds of bones in the corners of the chapel, an enormous chandelier made from bones (which contains at least one of every bone in the human body), and garlands of skulls draping the walls. There is even a coat of arms made from bones and the signature of Rint written using bones. The ossuary has been the backdrop for the movie Dungeons and Dragons, Blood and Chocolate and the novel The Black Angel for its extremely creepy decor.
9. Feng-Du “Ghost City,” China
Feng-Du is a necropolis built into a mountain in China that holds the realm of the dead and is the entrance to the Chinese Hells. This famous ghost city was made even creepier when the Three Gorges Dam was completed and left Feng-Du an island, with parts of the ghostly palace submerged underwater. On Ming Mountain, which is said to be one of the 72 graveyards for Taoism, there are 75 Buddha and Tao temples. It was here on Ming Mountain that it is thought the dead gather near the “spirit world,” lending the name of ghost city to Feng-Du.
There are many magic stories that come from this ghost city and it is believed by some that Feng-Du has become a place for terrible spirits, haunted by tormented souls. As the only ghost city in China, there is a yearly celebration here in March, which includes “Spirit Shows” honoring the spirits that haunt Feng-Du. With the completion of the Three Gorges Dam, now generations of tombs have been consigned to the depths of the Three Gorges Reservoir and the ghosts of Feng-Du will be joined in their watery home by those whose descendants have been forced to desert them.
10. Pere Lachaise Cemetery, Paris, France
If you like the idea of walking the corridors of cemeteries on Halloween, than Pere Lachaise Cemetery in Paris is the place to do it. With its miles of tombstones and mausoleums, Pere Lachaise is the mother of all cemeteries. The old burial place is not only home to many French greats (not to mention American rock musician Jim Morrison, probably the cemetery’s most famous resident), but the cemetery’s above ground tombs, statues and thousands of tombstones make for a perfect, creepy Halloween backdrop.
In the fall, golden and red leaves cling to the dying branches of trees in the cemetery, making October the perfect, eerie time to explore this huge cemetery. Surrounded by the ghosts of Balzac, The Doors music legend, and Chopin, visitors might get goose bumps and feel their skin crawl in this sprawling land of the dead. Or perhaps they will feel inspired by the souls of the deceased French poets, leaders and authors. Obviously, you’ll need to visit for yourself to see what effect this place has on you.
11. Bran Castle (aka Dracula’s Castle), Romania
A fortress situated on the border of Transylvania and Walachia in Romania, this castle was the home of the Bram Stoker’s legendary Dracula character, which has led to persistent myths that it was once the home of Vlad Dracula, or “Vlad the Impaler,” who was a ruler in the area known for the exceedingly cruel punishments he imposed during his reign and which inspired Stoker’s famous book.
The cruel leader who was rumored to live in this castle was mostly known for his preferred method of executing his opponents which was called “bung poling,” where the person was dropped upright onto a sharpened tree trunk starting from between the legs and forcing the tree trunk through the chest or neck. It is rumored Vlad “Dracula” would impale thousands at the same time, often leaving the bodies on the stakes decaying for months. Whether Vlad actually lived in Bran Castle is uncertain, but what better place to visit on Halloween than the Dracula’s Castle, which has inspired a plethora of terrifying vampire tales.
12. Fremantle Prison, Australia
This prison in Western Australia has a long sordid history and served as a place of incarceration for almost 150 years. Its inmates included British convicts, local prisoners, enemy aliens and prisoners of war. In the twentieth century, the prison became a maximum security facility, where the worst and most dangerous criminals were kept. The prison was also the site of a number of hangings, which were carried out at 8am every Monday, and put to death some of the country’s most dangerous murderers. Because of its violent and creepy past, this prison is rumored to be haunted by a variety of ghosts, who roam the halls, cells, gallows and tunnels underneath the prison.
The Government of Western Australia runs daily and nightly tours of this haunted, creepy prison, including one tour that takes you into terrifying water filled tunnels that run beneath the prison and connect to some of the solitary confinement cells. A nighttime tunnel tour beneath an old, creepy prison sounds like an excellent, albeit terrifying, way to celebrate Halloween.
13. Mary King’s Close, Edinburgh, Scotland
This series of underground closes in the Old Town area of Scotland have been shrouded in myths and mysteries for centuries. The closes, which were once narrow street passageways that were later closed by using the surrounding buildings as foundations for newer ones, make up a network of dark and creepy underground tunnels.
Blood-curdling tales of ghosts and murders, as well as stories of plague victims being cast into the close and left to die have given this close a particularly terrifying mystique. Edinburgh is internationally renowned for its strange paranormal activity and dark tales, and these underground tunnels seem to be one of the more haunted areas of the city. There is even a dark corner in the close where visitors leave stuffed animals in attempt to appease the ghost of a woman who was murdered in the tunnels centuries ago. It is said her ghost, as well as others, haunt visitors, making these ghost filled tunnels the perfect place to experience the paranormal this Halloween.
14. Rose Great Hall House, Montego Bay, Jamaica
Once the home of Annie Palmer, who is also known as the Great White Witch, this old plantation home in Jamaica is said to be haunted by the witch herself, as well as the people she is said to have murdered in the home. Annie Palmer, who was the wife of a powerful sugar plantation owner, was known as a cruel and gruesome mistress who tortured and killed her slaves for the smallest infractions. The Great White Witch was also known to take her slaves to bed and then murder them when she grew tired of them, burying them in unmarked graves on the property. It is thought she also murdered her first husband, John Palmer, and avidly practiced Voodoo. It was her Voodoo practices, including sacrificing human infants, and black magic that earned Annie Palmer the reputation of the Great White Witch. Rumor has it Palmer was finally murdered to stop her cruelty.
Despite efforts to entomb the witch’s body and build a grave that would prevent her from rising and roaming the grounds of the plantation, the Great White Witch continues to haunt the house to this day. According to local legend, the White Witch and her victims actively haunt the house and she has been seen wearing a green velvet dress and riding a black horse, whip in hand. She has also been heard walking the halls of the house, and cries of the babies and slaves she murdered have been heard filling the halls. Voices are reportedly sometimes heard coming from the dungeon where she tortured victims, and lights commonly are switched on and off throughout the house with no one around. If you are brave enough to explore this house, then prepare to come face to face with the ghost of the Great White Witch.
15. La Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Argentina
This impressive cemetery is as beautiful as it is creepy. It is decorated by elaborate marble mausoleums, Greek columns and tall gates. Located here are the graves of some of Argentina’s most influential and important figures, including presidents, scientists and wealthy landowners. While the cemetery is a popular tourist destination and many of the mausoleums are well-maintained, there are others that have creepy cracks and lids jolted off coffins, which perhaps happened as souls of the dead tried to escape and haunt the cemetery.
The other spooky part of La Recoleta Cemetery? There is a colony of feral cats, which reside within the gates. The cats mostly hide during the day, but come out at dusk in anticipation of a group of women who come to the cemetery each day to feed them. Something about the imagery of feral cats living among tombs just seems so Halloween–making this a great spot to visit on October 31.
16. Manchac Swamp, Louisiana, United States
New Orleans has long been high on the list of many seeking out haunted locations full of Voodoo, black magic and all things dark and scary. Located outside of the city is the notoriously haunted and scenic Manchac Swamp, which has been ranked over and over again as one of the creepiest places on Earth. As night approaches, it is said that you can see the red eyes of ghost alligators as they float above the dark waters, following any visitors as they venture deep into the spooky depths of the swamp.
Tours that carry torch lamps will take you into the depths of this eerily silent swamp, where it is rumored you can hear creatures of the night singing bewitching songs, and see victims from a 1915 tidal wave which carried hundreds to their death in the swamp floating beneath the surface of the water. There are also stories about the ghosts of pirates, swamp witches and restless spirits haunting the swamp under a Voodoo curse. This swamp didn’t get the name Haunted Swamp for nothing, so venture into this spooky swamp past dark only if you dare.
17. Haunted Well of Himeji Castle, Japan
Thirty miles west of Kobe, Japan are the well-preserved remains of an imposing wooden castle at Himeji. The haunted Okiku’s Well, located near the Hara-kiri Maru (Suicide Gate) where people were forced to commit ritual suicide by disembowelment (defeated Japanese soldiers were often forced to commit suicide), was not dug as a source of drinking water, but rather was created as a means of washing away the blood of the suicide victims and was named after a woman who died there. In Japanese culture, ghosts take on different forms and Yuurei ghosts are those that were murdered or committed suicide.
The most hauntings by Yuureis come from wronged female spirits. Okiku was a servant for a lord who lived in the castle, and she was wrongly accused of stealing one of a collection of precious plates. Okiku was tried and found guilty and was punished by being tortured, sexually assaulted and killed. Okiku’s body was thrown into the well and because of the way she died it is believed her soul could find no eternal peace. It is said Okiku haunts the well today, where in the early morning hours you can hear her screams rising from the depths of the well where her mutilated body was tossed centuries ago. So, if you find yourself in Japan this Halloween, make a trip to Himeji’s castle, camp out near Okiku’s well and wait to see if you hear the woman’s ghost screaming from below.
18. Ballygally Castle, Ireland
Located in Northern Ireland, this castle overlooks Ballygally Bay and is now a hotel. It is also reputed to be one of the most haunted places in all of Ireland. It is said that one of the castle’s former residents, Lady Isobel Shaw, amuses herself even in death by knocking on the doors of different rooms and then disappearing abruptly (as ghosts are wont to do).
Lady Shaw, who was locked in her room and starved by her husband, leapt to her death from a window of the castle, and it is said she has not left the property since. Another former resident, Madame Nixon, is said to have been seen roaming the halls of the hotel in her silk dress. If you are feeling brave this Halloween, get a room in this hotel and see if you experience any paranormal activity.
19. Rookwood Cemetery, Sydney, Australia
The largest cemetery in the southern hemisphere, the Rookwood Cemetery (also known as Rookwood Necropolis) is of course home to corpses as well as rumored hauntings and paranormal activity – but it’s unlikely you’ll visit many cemeteries with more than a million corpses in it. In fact, this is probably the most impressive cemetery you’ve ever seen and is a city in its own right (hence the name of Necropolis, or city of the dead). This is not just an historic site, however, as it’s still in operation as a cemetery – it’s the largest Victorian era cemetery still in use today anywhere in the world.
You can join a tour during the daytime, but it seems much more appropriate to take one of the many twilight tours on offer, don’t you think? With the immense numbers of graves, mausoleums and a crematorium, there are plenty of creepy nooks and crannies to explore for any visitor to explore at any time of year, but this city of the dead can become particular interesting (and spooky) at Halloween time. Who knows, maybe you’ll just see a restless soul wandering among the million tombstones.
20. Capuchin Crypt, Rome, Italy
Located in a small space comprised of several tiny chapels in Rome, the Capuchin Crypt is the final resting place for over 4,000 Capuchin monks, who died between 1528 and 1870, as well as several poor Roman citizens. There are six total rooms in the crypt, where large numbers of bones are nailed to the walls in intricate patterns and some bones create working light fixtures and chandeliers.
There are themes for each of the rooms, including a room decorated using bones in honor of the Resurrection, a room full of skulls, one with pelvises, and another with leg and thigh bones. There is also a crypt of three skeletons, which include a center skeleton holding a scythe (a symbol of death). A sign in the last chapel reminds visitors that “As you are now, we once were. As we are now, you one day will be.” Although visitors flock to this crypt at all times of the year, I can imagine few spookier ways to spend Halloween than in crypts decorated with human bones.
21. Raynham Hall, Norfolk, England
This haunted hall in Norfolk, England is home to arguably one of the most famous ghost pictures of all time – and if you’re a ghost story lover, then pay no attention to the people who have decried it as an obvious hoax. The picture is of a woman known as the “little brown lady of Raynham” descending a staircase in Raynham Hall. The ghost is supposed to be that of Lady Dorothy Townshend, who married the Hall’s owner (Lord Townshend) in 1713.
Lady Townshend is said to have died in 1726, but rumors at the time said that instead of dying she was actually locked up in the house by her husband. So, whether you believe in ghosts or not, it’s easy to see why Lady Townshend might very well haunt the halls of her former home and prison since her death (whenever that actually was). The photograph of the Raynham Hall ghost was made in 1936, but since that time no sightings of the ghost have been reported in the Hall. In fact, more recently there have been reports that indicate Lady Townshend might have moved house herself to a different spot in Raynham. But why don’t you hang around in Raynham Hall all night on Halloween to find out for yourself?
22. The Chase Vault at Christ Church, Barbados
A great unsolved mystery revolves around an old burial vault in this church that was built on a high, windswept hill overlooking the Caribbean. The Chase Vault is the location of this sinister and chilling mystery, which took place sometime between 1807 and 1820. Often called the Barbados Tomb Mystery, this story has been repeated thousands of time and is often found in books of the best global ghost stories.
The tomb, which was built to house deceased members of a rich plantation family named Chase, is made up of limestone and was tightly sealed with a large hunk of marble at the entrance. Several members of the Chase family had been buried in the vault between 1808 and 1816, when the vault was reopened in 1816 in order to place the coffin and body of Samuel Brewster inside. However, when the family opened the vault, there were met with a scene of mystery. Not only was the 240 lb. lead coffin of Thomas Chase in the wrong location, all of the coffins except the first coffin to be placed in the vault were in disarray. Despite there being no evidence of the seal from the marble door had been opened, fine sand was placed inside the vault before it was resealed in order to catch the footprints of anybody who may enter the vault. When the vault was later reopened, the seals were found to be intact, yet once again all of the coffins were in disarray with the exception of the first coffin placed in the vault.
The heavy lead coffin of Thomas Chase was also leaning against the inside vault door, thus blocking any alleged perpetrator’s exit. Some believe that the spirits of two family members who committed suicide (and therefore, were cursed and restless) moved the coffins. In any event, the coffins were moved and buried elsewhere and to this day the mystery has not been solved.
23. The Hellfire Tunnels and Caves, West Wycombe, England
These artificial caves were dug out of the hill at West Wycombe in 1740, when the notorious owner, Sir Francis Dashwood, ordered that they be created. At the time, the creation of artificial landscapes was popular among nobility as a means of displaying wealth. The design was meant to reflect Greek myth, and the small stream at the end that is supposed to represent to river Styx.
The caves were later used for occasional meetings for the infamous Hellfire Club, of which Sir Francis Dashwood was the founder. To this day, no one knows exactly what happened in these Hellfire meetings in the caves. This place is dark and creepy and at the end of the tunnel there is an “Inner Temple” where you can watch a what some speculate a Hellfire meeting might have looked like. Any dark cave associated with the word “hell” sounds like a good old spooky place to visit on Halloween.
24. Castle of Good Hope, Cape Town, South Africa
It is no wonder that the oldest surviving building in Cape Town is rumored to be haunted. The castle, which was built between 1666 and 1679 as a replacement to an older military fortification, was declared a national monument in 1936 and has been vigorously restored. Located in the castle are cells where prisoners marked the walls with terrifying graffiti. The most decorated was the Donker Gat (the dark hole), which was a windowless dungeon and torture chamber located in the depths of this castle.
During winter floods, it has been recorded that rising water levels in the dungeons would drown prisoners chained to the walls in the dark hole. It would seem natural, then, that is castle is haunted, no? A semi-luminous ghost is said to have been seen roaming the halls of the castle and ringing the castle bell from time to time. Lady Anne Barnard, who once lived in the castle, is also said to be one of the most prominent ghosts, as her curly-haired but transparent ghost appears at parties and can be seen bathing in the Dolphin Pool of the castle.
25. Old Changi Hospital, Singapore
Singapore is rumored to be the most haunted place in all of Asia, and the Old Changi Hospital houses its fair share of supernatural guests. The run-down hospital has been a favorite spot for paranormal investigators and school children out for a ghostly thrill for years. According to rumors, voices can be heard echoing through the halls of this old hospital at night and rooms where the blood from deceased bodies was once drained have a concentration of ghostly encounters.
Brave souls now attempt to make it all the way to the roof of this creepy place, despite the fact that people who work nearby are scared of the hospital. Even if you don’t believe in ghosts, this spooky old and abandoned hospital is sure to give just about anyone the willies and only the truly adventurous should explore this notoriously haunted spot this Halloween.
26. Salem, Massachusetts, United States
Whether you believe in ghosts or not, this New England town is a great Halloween destination for anyone. I mean, witch costumes are aplenty on this holiday and pretty much every student in the United States has learned about the notorious Salem Witch trials. As the location for those famous Witch Trials, where twenty-six people accused of witchcraft were tried, convicted and put to death, Salem is now the home to several museums which describe and commemorate the witch trials.
One popular destination is The Witch House, which still stands on the corner of North and Essex streets It can be toured by Halloween lovers and tourists alike, who can see eerie memorabilia like “witch pins” and a small bottle containing finger bones. Visitors to Salem can also go on one of the many tours of the city that will tell tales of its haunted past. Not surprisingly, most of the hauntings are by people who were hanged during the Salem Witch Trials – but I can’t think of a better reason to haunt a place than being wrongly accused of witchcraft.
27. Ossuary in Hallstatt, Austria
This picturesque mountain town in Austria, which is an easy day-trip from Salzburg, is known for its ossuary full of painted skulls and stacked bones. The ossuary contains over 1200 skulls alone, with the most recent being added in 1997. The ossuary, which is located behind the Parish Church of St. Michael, contains decorated skulls dating back to the 15th century.
Due to lack of space in the cemetery, the right to any grave would expire after 10-15 years, when the bodies were then exhumed and the skulls were lovingly decorated by family members with the names of the deceased, their professions in life, when they were born, and when they died – and then placed in the ossuary. Even if you can’t read the inscriptions, you can usually tell the men from the women by the extra decorations – women tend to have flowers while men tend to have leaves.
This isn’t the first bone-filled church in Europe on this list (in fact, ossuaries like this were once incredibly common), but the decorated skulls – and the fact that it’s still in use in modern times – definitely make it an interesting Halloween destination.
28. The Stanley Hotel, Estes Park, Colorado, United States
What could be scarier than sleeping in the hotel that inspired Stephen King’s famously scary novel, The Shining? The Stanley Hotel, which also happens to have commanding views of the nearby Rocky Mountain National Park, is where King was staying when he had the idea to write The Shining. The TV series based on the novel was filmed at The Stanley, but the movie itself was filmed elsewhere. Still, visitors to the Estes Park hotel can check out room #217 where King stayed and where The Shining was born.
And in addition to the already-creepy association of the hotel with one of the scariest movies in history, it’s also reportedly haunted by ghosts – including hotel founder F.O. Stanley (he prefers to hang out in the lobby and the billiard room, evidently), Flora Stanley (who occasionally still plays piano for guests in the music room), and a woman called Miss Wilson who haunts the aforementioned room #217. Guests have also said they hear children playing in the hall outside room #418 when there are no children around. So, although seeing “Redrum” written on the walls with blood is doubtful, spending a Halloween night in this spooky and supposedly haunted hotel is a good way to test your nerves.
29. Valley of the Kings, Egypt
For more than 500 years, the Valley of the Kings served as the burial place for kings and powerful nobles of Ancient Egypt. Standing on the west banks of the Nile, there are thousands or ornate tombs, some of which contain numerous entrances and complex chambers, others of which are simple pits. These tombs are also home (or, more accurately, were home) to thousands of mummies, carefully wrapped and preserved.
Since the discovery of King Tutankhamen, this area of Egypt has ignited the curiosity of archaeologists and laymen alike, who love stories of ghostly mummy raids and spooky happenings. Many of the tombs have curses written upon them, warning any who enter may suffer from death. This legend was given validity when several members of the team that first opened Tutankhamen’s tomb mysteriously died, adding to the creepy nature of this area. Whether you believe in the curse or not, this ancient burial ground remains full of mystery to this day, making it a great Halloween destination.
30. New Orleans, Louisiana, United States
As one of the oldest cities in the U.S., New Orleans has a rich and very haunted history. In fact, Halloween in New Orleans is considered second only to Mardi Gras. There are parties, masquerade balls, haunted torch tours, and special Halloween exhibits throughout the city. There is also the annual Ghost Gallivant, which takes visitors into the famous cemeteries at night and has spooky Voodoo magic themed Halloween events.
Visitors can go on tours of the famous above-ground cemeteries (including the one in which the famous Voodoo priestess Marie Laveau is buried, where devoted followers continue to leave offerings to this day), and anyone who has ever read an Anne Rice novel will want to check out her home in the Garden District – it served as her inspiration and the setting for not only some of her famous vampire books but also her series about the family of witches.
Just walking through the Garden District or French Quarter at night is enough to make anyone understand why the city is reportedly full of vampires and witches. There are ghost stories and legends in so many of the buildings and cemeteries in New Orleans that is must-see destination at Halloween – or anytime if you’re a lover of spooky things.
31. Bell Witch Cave, Tennessee, United States
To get to the source of a particularly well-known spooky legend in American folklore, you’ve got to go where the legend lives, so to speak. So to find out more about the famous Bell Witch, you’ll need to go to her cave. Local legends recount that the Bell Witch has haunted this cave since 1817, when the then-owners of the property (whose last name was Bell) were bombarded by horrible noises outside their home and one of the Bell children said she’d been assaulted by something she couldn’t see.
These days, it is said that the witch appears to people in human form and there are many unexplainable pictures of shadows and other such entities in the cave. While the cave remains in private hands, it is opened to visitors during the summer and – conveniently for you – during the month of October. Upon entering the cave, it is alleged that one will be overcome by the feeling of being watched and if you take a rock from the cave, you will forever be cursed by the Bell Witch. Many others have also reported voices in restricted areas of the cave that cannot be reached by any human.
About the Author
Bootsnall staff writer Julie Blakley’s fascination with cemeteries started at a young age, when her father would walk her through the historic cemetery bordering her preschool on their way home. Since then, she has traveled near and far, never missing an opportunity to visit cemeteries and eerie hangouts around the world. When she’s not investigating tombstones at Pere Lachaise, Julie is writing the France Travel Guide and dreaming of her next travel adventure.
original photo locations: Mummy Museum in Guanajuato from here, St. Michan’s Church in Dublin from here, Ossuary in Hallstatt from here, Fremantle Prison in Australia from here, Raynham Hall in Norfolk from here, Hellfire Caves in Buckinghamshire from here, Cape Town Castle from here, Chase Mausoleum in Barbados from here, Old Changi Hospital in Singapore from here, Bell Witch Cave in Tennessee from here.
How to Choose a South Africa Safari
Posted , comments closedHow to Choose a South Africa Safari
So, you’ve made the critical decision and settled on a holiday in South Africa. It’s going to be brilliant. Cape Town is jaw-dropping, the beaches of the Cape Peninsula are beautiful (and more often than not virtually empty), the food is wonderful, the wine even better, and the Garden Route is a road-tripper’s dream.
This is only the tip of the proverbial iceberg. The Big Five will play a big part in every South Africa holiday, but trying to choose a safari really can be a hair-pulling, teeth-grinding affair. The South African safari market is ridiculously saturated (mainly because it is ridiculously lucrative) and there are so many options that it can be difficult to know where to begin.
The good news is that there all kinds of safaris out there – something for every budget and every kind of person (except perhaps those who don’t like animals). Whether you’re a backpacker or an investment banker, there is bound to be an ideal solution. It’s just a matter of knowing what’s available and what the jargon means in real, tangible terms.
Hopefully, this pocket guide will set you on the right track to your perfect South Africa safari:
WHERE TO GO ON SAFARI IN SOUTH AFRICA:
First, you’ll need to decide where to go:
1. There are no decent, ethical game reserves near Cape Town. Full stop.
I used to work for an excellent South Africa safari specialist, and I lost count of the times that I was asked about safaris near Cape Town. It just isn’t possible. Yes, if you Google ‘safari near Cape Town’, you’ll come across a number of hits claiming to be Big Five game reserves a couple of hours outside Cape Town, but don’t listen to a word of it. Truly wild animals need space, probably around 5,000 hectares as a bare minimum, and none of the “game reserves” near Cape Town offer this kind of room to roam. If these reserves are indeed home to the Big Five, it probably means a couple of lions, usually within some kind of enclosure, a few elephants and some depressed giraffes. Basically, they amount to nothing more than glorified zoos. They are unethical and certainly fail to provide any kind of authentic safari feeling. You’re likely to leave feeling very sorry for the two overweight lions in their oversized cage who can’t be bothered to even raise their heads when your safari vehicle screeches up to a halt less than a metre away. I’ve seen it and I’m sufficiently scarred.
2. If you want a real bush safari experience, you need to head north.
Understandably, many holidaymakers to South Africa would prefer to fly in and out of Cape Town, by-passing the fabled badlands of Johannesburg altogether. However, not only is the area north of Johannesburg very beautiful indeed (Blyde River Canyon, God’s Window and more) but, unquestionably, the South Africa’s best safaris are found in Kruger National Park or Madikwe Game Reserve. These reserves are huge – Kruger, at over 2 million hectares, is about the size of Wales – and they feel really, truly, authentically wild. Madikwe is less visited and perfect for travellers eager to do something different. It hugs the border with Botswana and spans a massive 76,000 hectares – compare that to the 3,000 hectare “reserves” near Cape Town. It also has the advantage of being totally malaria free. Both Kruger and Madikwe are brilliant for really exciting safaris. It’s worth making the journey north if you’re passionate about wildlife, and you’re likely to see whole herds of animals doing what wild animals do – not just a lone rhino at a man-made watering hole.
3. The Eastern Cape can be a great compromise.
Sometimes, getting up north just isn’t possible. If time is tight or you’ve got a whole family in tow, you could opt for a safari in the malaria-free Eastern Cape. Again, there are a host of options available, some far better than others. As ever, the bigger the game reserve, the more authentic the safari experience. Unfortunately, the curse of the Eastern Cape seems to be that you pay for each hectare through the nose.
Kwandwe and Shamwari (the setting for the BBC’s ‘Safari School’ programme) are both over 20,000 hectares and both the most expensive choices. Despite its size, I still found Shamwari fairly tame and spoilt by its own commercialism. There are just a couple too many lodges in the reserve, so you tend to come across other vehicles very regularly and the animals are found mainly by walkie-talkie contact between rangers rather than bushtracking. I saw the Big Five, but I didn’t get the big feeling.
Some of the smaller reserves in the Eastern Cape can actually provide a far warmer and more memorable safari experience. Bukela, in the Bushman’s conservancy, is a family-run lodge with game drives into the 8,000 hectare Amakhala Game Reserve. There’s a real community feeling here and you get far more sense of living remotely in the bush, even if it is low scrub rather than wild plains. Pumba (6500 hectares) is another small but lovely reserve, and Kariega (7,500) offers some really reasonably priced accommodation as well as horse-riding along the beach at Kenton-by-Sea.
Addo Elephant Park is definitely something not to be missed as you’re almost guaranteed to see dozens of elephants gathered around waterholes and crossing streams. Although technically a Big Five reserve, Addo is all about elephants, and you should combine it with another reserve if you really want to see lions as well. You can stay outside Addo in one of the beautiful guesthouses in the Sundays River Valley, such as Hitgeheim Lodge, surrounded by citrus orchards and ostriches and drive into the park with your own car during the day. Alternatively, all of the lodges and guesthouses in the area offer game drives into Addo with an experienced guide for an additional fee.
WHERE TO STAY ON SAFARI IN SOUTH AFRICA:
Next, you’ll need to choose what kind of accommodation you’re after. Here are a few hints about lodges and rest camps as well as what’s included and what’s not:
Private game reserves: Think glossy brochures, impeccable service, chocolates on the pillow and G&Ts at sunset. Private game reserves will provide the full safari works – one morning and one evening guided game drive (usually in an open top vehicle, with stops for morning coffee and sundowner cocktails), and all meals are included in the price. So, although the rates may seem gut-wrenchingly high, you can take comfort in the fact that you won’t spend much when you’re actually there (unless you have a penchant for vintage wines).
You’ll find lots of exclusive reserves in what is known as Greater Kruger – Sabi Sands, Timbavati, Thornybush. Basically, these reserves are still part of Kruger, but privately owned. There are no fences between the land owned by these reserves and the public part of Kruger National Park, so the animals can wander between public and private at will. The really crucial thing is that the game rangers can go off-road in the private reserves, and really track the animals through the bush, while all game drives in public Kruger must stick strictly to the roads.
Rest camps: These are the other end of the scale. Operated by South African National Parks (or SAN Parks), rest camps are the cheapie options in the public part of the Kruger, Addo Elephant, and other National Parks. Prices start very low indeed (a little over a tenner), and you can opt for camping, caravanning or one of the accommodation types available. These range from wooden chalets for 10 people to forest huts for 2 people, some with and some without private bathrooms but almost all with their very own braai (South Africa barbeque) set up outside. There will invariably be a kind of site-shop, so you can stock up on boerewors for dinner. If you love camping or getting close to the great outdoors, you’ll love it (I know I did!).
Safari-wise, it’s all about self-drive. You’ll get up early and scour the road network hoping to come across wildlife as you drive, and there’s nothing like the feeling of just happening upon a herd of elephants in your own car. It may not be off-roading, but it’s brilliant in other ways. One tip: If you’re planning on a rest camp safari, be sure to book really early because they fill up incredibly quickly – sometimes YEARS in advance.
Of course, you can always mix and match. Why not give yourselves a few nights in a basic forest hut before moving to a private reserve for some luxury and exclusive game drives. That really could get you the best of both safari worlds… and you won’t burn a hole in your pocket the size of the Fish River Canyon!
Fingers crossed that this information will inch you closer to the right safari and there are some great you South Africa travel specialists out there. South Africa is just wonderful, and however you choose to do it, you’re sure to have a pretty unbeatable experience.



