Australia’s Northern Territory: 10 Things Not to Miss

To me, the Northern Territory is Australia. That’s not to say that the rest of the country doesn’t have much going on, it certainly does, but the Northern Territory is the Australia of my boyhood. When, as a twelve year old, I fantasized about visiting the land Down Under, my mind imagined vast expanses, Aboriginal bushmen, frill-necked lizards, kangaroos taller than my father, giant red rocks, ferocious crocodiles and the endlessly vacant outback – and this iconic version of Australia, the stuff of childhood dreams, really does exist in the Northern Territory.

It’s in the territory after all where the majority of Australia’s crocs reside, and where Sweetheart, the country’s most famous crocodile—notorious for attacking boats—made her nest. It’s the territory where many Aboriginal young men still go on “walkabout” when they come of age and where most of Australia’s indigenous population lives. It’s the territory that Mick Dundee called home, in the movie Crocodile Dundee, which (let’s admit it) informed most of our early opinions on the country and the territory where frilled necked lizards leave their dens during the wet season, escaping predators by running on their hind legs. It’s even the territory where red kangaroos, known to grow as tall as six and a half feet, hop through the scrub brush at the base of Uluru, Australia’s red-rock centerpiece.

And since Australia’s Northern Territory is twice as large as the state of California with 1/200th of the population, it’s the most ideal place to carve out a little elbow room and explore the outback. Here are my top-ten must-visit spots in “The Territory”:

1 – Uluru

The navel of Australia isn’t just a national icon; it’s also one of the most sacred Aboriginal sites that the country has on offer and certainly one of the most beautiful on a grand scale. Standing next to Uluru, glowing red in the afternoon sun, while reading the dreaming stories retold by the Anangu people for tens of thousands of years, a person feels humbled but at the same time connected rather than insignificant. Few places on the planet can offer such a depth of emotion.

2 - Kata Tjuta

Resting in the same National Park, and a mere ten miles away from Uluru, the domed formations of Kata Tjuta are often thought of as even more striking by travelers. Which makes it stranger still to learn that only 25% of the visitors to Uluru-Kata-Tjuta National Park stop off there at all. One wonders, once you’ve gone all that way (because the Red Center is not close to anything else in the whole country) why not push on those extra ten miles? Those who do discover that it’s infinitely worth it —and the Valley of the Winds walk, following a path through the domes carved by rushing wind for millions of years, is an experience that won’t soon be forgotten.

3 - Kakadu National Park

Before I ever set foot on Australian soil I was surprised to find Kakadu National Park ranked above even the mighty Uluru in a book titled: 100 Places in Australia That Australians Should See Before They Die. Now, having spent a combined month tramping through the park, I know why.

Kakadu, located in the Territory’s “top-end” is as diverse and fascinating as the country itself. It is a massive park, 12,305 square miles (roughly the size of Israel) with a wildly varied ecology. Grasslands, mangrove swamps, deciduous forests, savanna and monsoon rainforests all flourish here creating a wide variety of animal habitats.

Cruising the Yellow Water Billabong at sunset to spot birds, crocodiles and the occasional buffalo is an absolute must. Also be sure not to miss the rock art and panoramic wetland vistas at Ubirr or the opportunity for a swim at Jim Jim Falls, Gunlom Falls (where parts of Crocodile Dundee were filmed) or Maguk Plunge Pool.

4 - Kings Canyon

This spot is the least visited of Central Australia’s big three (behind Uluru and Kata Tjuta) but those who do visit are in for a treat.

The Rim Walk, around the top of the canyon, indulges hikers with hundreds of egg-shaped sandstone domes unfolding across the horizon, wide vistas of the surrounding stone country and vertigo inducing looks 330 feet down to the valley floor below.

Inside of the canyon there is a small, wind-protected swimming hole perfect for refreshing tired hikers and for taking in the much more comfortable view up the sheer walls.

5 - Animal Tracks Safari

It is not my business to blatantly plug a safari company. But in all my time in Australia I have seen an endless string of travelers disappointed because they were not able to have an experience in which they gained access to genuine Aboriginal culture. Animal Tracks does just that in a way that honors Aboriginal Heritage rather than exploiting it. With an Aboriginal guide, guests track crocs and learn to find wild carrots, yams, grubs and sugar bag (native honey). Later they use fire sticks to get a blaze going for roasting crocodile, kangaroo and barramundi on an underground oven. This is a perfect way for kids to learn about this fascinating culture and pick up a few basic survival skills.

6 - Litchfield National Park

Go to Litchfield on a hot Saturday and you’ll get a master’s class on how Territorians stay cool. The park is Mother Nature’s take on Wild Rivers, a circuit of amazing swimming holes and cliff jumps. The finest gem among them is Walker Creek where you can reserve a shady campsite and have a natural swimming pool, carved by river against rock, all to yourself—water monitor lizards and butterflies included.

7 – Darwin

The largest population center in the Territory, Darwin is far from being a booming metropolis. The town has a quaint feel and it’s easy to explore the sidewalk bars and harbor side parks by foot. Be sure to visit the sprawling Mindil Beach Sunset Market (Thursday & Sunday only), pretty much the only place I’ve ever been where you can feast on an endless variety of local and international dishes, purchase a bottle of organic honey, get a massage and watch monkey hand puppets play the bongos all in one night. Another great way to acquaint yourself with the city is to hop aboard the Alfred Nobel for a dinner cruise with Darwin Harbor Cruises. The cruise is a perfectly relaxing chance to learn the history of Australia’s second most famous harbor while indulging in oysters, shrimp and barbecued barramundi.

8 - Douglas Hot Springs

Normally when I think hot springs I think of mildly warm water that smells overpoweringly of sulfur. But not Douglas. Here the water bubbles up boiling hot through a sandy creek bed and converges with a cool water section of running river. The resulting mix comes at any temperature that you could desire (from scalding to tepid). Sitting in the steaming pools at dusk with your legs trailing in the current is the all the spa you’ll ever need up in the Territory. Keep your eyes peeled for the two beautiful olive pythons living in the hollow tree stump at the water’s edge.

9 - Katherine George

My favorite experience in Australia may very well be the 41-mile, five day Jatbula Trail tracing the Edith River near Katherine. Arrive in the early part of the dry season (when the rivers are safe from saltwater crocs but there’s still lots of water flowing) and you will experience some of the most stunning, yet isolated scenery the territory has to share. Each day of hiking leads to a new, separate, and totally unpopulated waterhole with natural slides, cliffs to jump off of and animals of all sorts to spot including the rare frill-necked lizard. The hike winds through grassy savannah, swampy wetlands, and rough stone country—sometimes all three in a day, before dropping you at another empty, spectacular campsite.

10 - Arnhem Land

Abutting Kakadu National park, this vast Aboriginal Land Trust is difficult for tourists to access but worth the effort ten-times over. Arnhem Land has the same various beauty as Kakadu without the infrastructure or crowds. More importantly, this is the spot to go if you are looking to connect with indigenous people living in the traditional manner. Some of the area can be accessed by tourists who hold permits, reserved far in advance. If you aren’t planning a year out a better option comes around in July, when the Aboriginal Community at Oenpelli (near the Kakadu-Arnhem Land Border) hosts an “Open Day”. There, visitors can see the works of traditional artists, practice spear throwing, enjoy local music and dance and watch a footy match between neighboring communities. A month later, on the isolated Gove Peninsula in North East Arnhem Land, the Garma Culture Festival kicks off, a weeklong opportunity for visitors to see the intact cultural traditions of the Yolngu people who have inhabited the peninsula continuously throughout the course of history. It may take a little research to access Arnhem Land but the opportunity to interact with Aboriginal communities on their land and on their terms is absolutely invaluable.

So there it is. The Northern Territory in all its croc filled, scorched earth, wild, sprawling, epic glory. In danger of sounding far too gushy: let me wager that this is the Down Under you’ve always dreamed of.

When to go

To visit the Top-End try the end of May till the first week in July when the water holes are full but the crocs have moved out of them. The Red Center is great any time but keep in mind that summer temperatures regularly climb upwards of a hundred and ten degrees.

Photo credits:
Uluru by Peter Nijenhuis on Flickr, Kings Canyon by Lyndi&Jason on Flickr, Darwin sunset market by grun2000 on Flickr, Swimming hole and Gunlom Falls by Steve Bramucci

Penguins On Phillip Island, Australia - Choreographed By Nature

We feel as if we were here to watch a football match. There is a palpable electric feel in the air and expectancy is high. We hear a cry of excitement, “I can see one!” The crowds strain their necks and try to focus on the moon-lit waters. I train my binoculars and catch my first glimpse of a pair of wobbly feet. Now the deep blue sheen of a wing and then the head!

We are on Phillip Island, 140 km from Melbourne, Australia known for its pristine beaches, wildlife and most importantly the ‘Penguin parade’. George Bass discovered the island in 1798 and named it after Australia’s first governor, Arthur Philip. In the late 1920s an access to this island was built and organized viewing of the fairy penguins was organized and tourist traffic boomed!

We enter Phillip Island through a bridge linking the mainland after a scenic drive from Melbourne. We see the Koala Conservation centre, where there’s a boardwalk and we get to hug these sleepy leaf munching marsupials. We also visit the Nobbies centre, which has a camera link with a nearby Fur seal colony and we get to see them frolicking on the rocks! We walk through the main building with coffee shops, souvenir stalls and take a five minute walk along the Summerland beach to reach the amphitheatre- like grandstand.

There are flood lights here and a massive crowd of spectators, many Japanese tourists among them. We see that there are other options too to view the fairy penguins. One is a Penguins plus Viewing platform that gives you a little shelter from the cold winds-at a cost of course! The other one is the elevated Sky-Box only for five tourists, in an enclosed elevated tower that also makes use of latest night view technology and has rangers to give commentaries!

We are given maps and a list of Dos and Don’ts by the volunteers and strictly instructed that photography is prohibited. Penguins’ eyes are specialized for seeing underwater and on land at low light and are highly sensitive to sudden brightness. We are all bundled up as the icy blast whips through our clothing and we are elated to see our first fairy penguins, the stars of the show tonight.

The fairy penguins are native only to Australia and New Zealand. These diminutive birds are only 33 cms tall whereas their Antarctic cousins are as tall as 70 cm! They waddle towards us, some get thrown back by the tide and others assume roles of leaders as they guide the pack towards the green path leading to the burrows in the sand dunes.

What begins with a few birds is now a magical procession of hundreds! Some of them look hesitant as if crossing a busy road, others preen themselves for some imaginary ramp show, and others walk with military discipline in a single file towards their young ones in the burrows. Some penguins are so full of their dinner that they take some rest on the beach before waddling home! We are told that these frail-looking birds leave for the sea at dawn and sometimes swim as much as 100 km in search of food! They lay eggs in their burrows and both parents take turns in incubation.

These tuxedo-clad penguins have the gait of choreographed drunks! They make their way by following the cries of their young. We find it amazing as to how these cuddly creatures reach the precise shores without any homing devices or GPS and make it a daily sunset ritual.

As the penguins walk towards the burrows, we follow them on the dimly-lit wooden boardwalks and see some amazing sights. A penguin feeding a small one with open beak his cache of fish, some penguins communicating in excited cries and others watching the crowds with some interest before disappearing into their subterranean homes.

The wardens lead us towards the exit as we reluctantly leave this grand spectacle of nature. The black and white birds have made hundreds of fans tonight! It is a totally surreal experience. An event of nature has been orchestrated into something like a fairground experience with a truly Australian flavour!

All the more surreal because I don’t have one photograph of the Parade (except for a postcard from the souvenir shop), but I can vividly recall in my mind’s eye even today the sequence of events that night!

Photo by wouter! on Flickr

St Lucia: The Pitons and Soufriere

Zipping along the canopy in St Lucia

11 Volcanoes in the Americas That You Can Climb

Maybe it’s because they seem primordial, or because you did really well in rocks for jocks, or actually know a thing or two about geology. Or perhaps just because it’s there, and well, so are you. But for some (perhaps magnetic) reason, where there is an accessible volcano, there are travelers (and sometimes locals) bathing in its hot-springs, scaling its slopes and marveling at its lava flows.

As you make your way around this still-forming planet, consider the following fairly accessible volcanoes for part of your next been-there-done-that party. It goes without saying that climbing or getting close to an active volcano carries risks, but most travelers find that those risks pale in comparison to lava, fumaroles, lava tubes, tumbling rocks and the kshgrrrrburbleburble that volcanoes whisper and shout to you when you’re nearby.

Below you’ll find a list of accessible volcanoes for your hiking and viewing pleasure in the Americas. Sadly, Kilauea in Hawai’i is politically but not geographically in the Americas, so we’ll have to save that for a special ring of fire edition of the volcano walking for the mildly intrepid. For now you’ll have to make do with these beauties.

Mount St. Helens – Washington, USA

Since May of 1980, when Washington state’s Mt. St. Helens blew her cone and covered Seattle with ash that my friends tell me looked like snow, she has gained respect from locals and travelers alike. On a clear day, she is visible in the distance, from Seattle and Portland, Oregon as well, a flattened giant that blew her top.

Since 1987, the southern slopes of Mt. St. Helens have been open to climbers who wish to climb close to (but not into) the crater. Monitor Ridge is a popular trail that starts at Climber’s Bivouac, and takes between 7 and 12 hours to climb. Climbers can gain views of the crater, blast area and other nearby volcanic peaks, but those wishing to climb above 4,800 feet (the rim is at 8,365) must seek a permit.

More details are on the Mt. St. Helens website.

Mt. Redoubt – Alaska, USA

Mt. Redoubt is an active stratovolcano that erupted violently in March 2009, and is probably best seen from nearby, as opposed to up close. Until recently, climbing Redoubt required some technical expertise, fixed rope climbing and a peakside scramble to the top, but there’s no telling what things will be like after the eruption finally stops, so do your research before packing your gear.

For now, views of Redoubt volcano (from the Russian Sopka Redutskaya meaning “fortified place”) are best taken from afar. The 9,000-foot volcano is less than 200 miles from Anchorage.

You can also get a (less sulphuric) peek from home at the Alaska Volcano Observatory webpage.

Tequila Volcano - Mexico

In Mexico, there are a number of volcanoes that can be easily accessed, including Tequila Volcano, where visitors can actually drive to the edge of the crater and peer inside to see the forests that have sprung up inside. Not surprisingly, this volcano is located a stone’s throw from the town of Tequila, better known for another kind of liquid fire.

Rock climbers will want to summit “the plug”, a lava column that formed inside the mouth of the volcano and was then thrust upward by geologic pressure. Its sheer walls are not for the uninitiated, nor the acrophobic.

Other climbable volcanoes in Mexico

Also near the state of Jalisco is the Nevado de Colima volcano (inactive), which can be climbed, and Volcan de Fuego, which is active, and therefore best seen from down below. High-altitude treks would take climbers to the peaks of Iztaccihuatl and Orizaba (the highest peak in Mexico at 18,404 feet), but these are not for the inexperienced, the guideless or those who are short of time as they require a few days.

Volcan Arenal - Costa Rica

This starring player in Costa Rica’s ecotourism route is far too active and explosive to be climbed safely. It is often socked in with clouds, but nighttime visits to the nearby hot springs bring vantage points to see the small lava explosions and red-hot rocks tumble forth from the cone.

The area has grown in recent years with Costa Rica’s runaway tourism, and you may find more souls with whom to say “oooh” and “aaaah” than you were expecting.

Several hotels and outfitters in the town of Arenal, and nearby Fortuna, run tours, and the Arenal Observatory Lodge offers volcano views from right inside.

Horseback riding and bicycling are popular in this area, with all eyes trained towards the volcano, day and night.

Pacaya - Guatemala

Guatemala’s Pacaya volcano’s ash-lined slopes have been calling to travelers since the gringo trail first appeared. Volcano-lovers generally stay in the colonial town of Antigua, where tours can easily be arranged, and which is a pleasant, oft-visited spot on its own.

The hike up Pacaya starts with a steep climb through a pine forest, up through a strenuous section up slippery ash-lined slopes (two steps forward, one step back). Views from the top extend down to the pacific lowlands and all the way to El Salvador. A guide is recommended as the volcano’s activity is unpredictable, and the route may not always be clear. Also, historically there have also been muggings on this volcano, so going with a tour is a safer option.

For those aspiring vulcanologists for whom one Guatemalan volcano is not enough, you might consider taking a five-day tour with an outfitter that leads hikers up Pacaya, Sta. Maria, Acatenango and Fuego with camping on the slopes of the volcanoes.

Ometepe - Nicaragua

Nicaragua is home to several active volcanoes, including Masaya, which can be toured at night, and which has lava tubes which visitors can explore. A headlamp is a nice touch, as it keeps your hands free, but a flashlight is fine as well. Nicaragua’s Ometepe Island in Lake Nicaragua attracts volcano lovers as well for the two volcanoes that comprise the island (Ometepe means two mountains), Maderas and Concepci?n, neither of which tops 6,000 feet.

Concepci?n is the world’s highest lake island and is considered a fairly perfect example of a cone volcano. It remains active. Maderas is terraced in places where farmers take advantage of fertile growing conditions on her slopes.

For those visitors for whom these three volcanoes in Nicaragua have not quelled their need to see the world’s geology lab might consider also visiting Cosig?ina, in the northwest corner of the country. This volcano’s violent eruption in 1859 spewed ash and rock, and contributed to the formation of some of the islands in the Gulf of Fonseca. It’s now considered dormant, and is only 900 meters high, and covered in dense vegetation.

Boiling Lake - Dominica

Of sixteen active volcanoes in the Carribean, Dominica is home to nine, and since no significant eruptions have taken place since Columbus’ time, the rainforests are lush and mostly undisturbed. Visitors to this eco-destination can visit Morne Trois Pitons National Park, a World Heritage site since 1997, which is named for the remains of what was once an enormous volcano.

The park contains several volcanic features, including the hot springs at the Valley of Desolation and a 13 km, 3-4 hour hike up to the world’s second-largest boiling lake, a bubbling, burping greyish-blue 200-foot-wide lake which geologists believe to be a flooded fumarole. Locals consider it to be a right of passage, but except for the guides, you won’t find many repeat visitors. It’s messy business, especially since in addition to being highly volcanic, Dominica is also the rainiest of the Carribean islands. “Stinking hole” is another feature here, a lava tube in the middle of the forest that leaks sulphuric fumes.

For those who prefer their waters a little clearer, Dominica also offers an unusual underwater view of volcanic activity in the form of Champagne, an underground vent system that releases ticklish sulphuric bubbles that visitors can snorkel through. This is accessible by tour, or by kakaying out to the access point.

Soufri?re Hills - Montserrat

The formerly dormant Soufri?re Hills volcano on Montserrat came back to life in 1995, triggering fears of an imminent eruption, and chasing half of the island’s 12,000 inhabitants away. In 1997, the volcano made good on its threats, and covered the southern part of the island, including Plymouth, the 200-year-old capital, with a giant, lava-spilling eruption.

Ever since the volcano stabilized, travelers teem there to see the aftermath, and investments pour in from abroad to keep the economy going. Guests at Hot Rock Hostel get front row seats to the spectacle, and hiking and boat tours are also available. For details on what the volcano is doing at any given time, you can also visit the Montserrat Observatory site.

An overview (if brief) glimpse of the contrast between the two sides of the island, destroyed and unscathed is perhaps best gleaned from up above, which you can achieve by flying to one of the nearby islands, such as Dominica, a volcanic powerhouse in itself (see above). In fact, some experts suspect that Dominica is primed for an eruption on a similar scale to that suffered on Montserrat.

Villarica Volcano - Chile

Villarica Volcano is 19 km from Puc?n, Chile’s adventure sports capital in the Lakes District, in the middle-south of this stringbean of country. Outfitters charge a pretty penny to suit you up with mountaineering boots, a nifty waterproof jumpsuit, helmet, and piolet, or ice axe. A several hour-long climb takes you up to about 9,000 feet, and when the snow cooperates, much of the descent is done on little sleds on snow chutes set up by the guides, and stopped (hopefully) through self-arrest with an ice axe, which has led to more than one emergency-room visit in recent years.

Thousands of hikers climb this volcano every year, though weather turns many people back before reaching the top. Depending on the wind, the sulfur fumes can be blinding, and the temperatures punishing up at the top. Other volcanoes in Chile that can be climbed in a relatively short time period include Guallatiri in the far north, and Lincancabur and Lacsa from touristy San Pedro de Atacama. The Llaima and Chaiten volcanoes (in the south) have both erupted very recently and at the moment are not considered climbable.

There is also a short ski season during the southern winter up on the slopes of Villarrica and Osorno (near Puerto Varas) volcanoes. The mother of all volcanoes, and the highest (probably active) volcano in the world is Ojos del Salado on the Argentine/Chilean border, but this is a several day trip that requires serious mountain gear.

Cotopaxi - Ecuador

Ecuador is home to Pichincha, Riminahui, Cotopaxi and Chimborazo volcanoes, and of these, Cotopaxi is perhaps the most emblematic and the most frequently climbed, though is does require an overnight at a refuge. At 19,347 feet, it is the second highest volcano in Ecuador (the first is Chimborazo), but not on the continent. That honor goes to Ojos del Salado, on the Chile/Argentina border (see above)

From Quito, you can hire a guide, though since the starting point of the hike is at nearly 15,000 feet, a number of days’ acclimation in Quito beforehand, as well as climbing some smaller, nearby mountains would be wise. Hikes up Cotopaxi start the day before, gain several hundred feet of elevation over the course of a few hours, and then have climbers resting/sleeping from 6 PM to around midnight. At 1 AM climbers begin their summit attempt. It generally takes approximately 7 hours to summit and 3 to arrive back to the parking lot. For those who just want to get close and then put the volcano behind them, some Quito outfitters offer mountainbike trips down from the park’s entrance.

El Misti - Peru

Beautifully symmetrical El Misti Volcano is 19,101 feet high, and is accessible from “the white city” of Arequipa in Per?, which itself is 2400 meters above sea level, which will help travelers to acclimate. Misti (which means the gentleman in Quechua) last erupted in 1870 and is the source of much of the white stone of which the city itself (the second largest in Peru) is constructed.

This trip takes two days and one night, and gives hikers the chance to descend into one of the three concentric craters, should energy abound. The first day involves a 4×4 trip to the end of the road, followed by a 6-8 hour hike, a night of “sleep” at 4800 meters, and a 4 AM wakeup to make the summit in about five hours. Participants can expect to drink copious amounts of coca tea and be cold, even in their -15C sleeping bags. Tour agencies recommend booking this trip before arriving in Arequipa, as it is quite popular.

For a list of volcanoes of the world, visit the Global Volcanism Project. For a list of volcanoes with recent and ongoing volcanic activity, please see the International Volcano Research Centre’s website.

If you’ve climbed one of these volcanoes, or another in the Americas, let us know in the comments.

Read about author Eileen Smith and check out her other BootsnAll articles.

Photo credits:
Mt. St. Helens by barcar on Flickr, Redoubt on wikicommons, Tequila by mickou on Flickr, Arenal by pawpaw67 on Flickr, Pacaya by Bruno Grin on Flickr, Conception by tarariffic7 on Flickr, Dominica on wikicommons, Monserrat on wikicommons, Cotopaxi on wikicommons, Villarica by andyinsouthamerica on Flickr, El Misti on wikicommons

Cruising from Phuket to Phang Nga Bay

The beach at Phang Nga Bay